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questions for FE gurus
My 454 fe has been finished and run several times on a run stand and installed in the car . Much work to do before running it in the car. I have rotella 15/40w in it now, and I'm wondering if it's ok as break-in oil.
The engine has a hyd roller cam, so lifter seating is noy an issue. Oil pressure was 75# @ idle. Even with the hyd roller lifters, I'm still getting some "ticking" up top. Pre-loaded lifters as per Comp instructiions. I'm worried about the roller tip rockers not rolling. (tip rollers were beat flat when I got the car with 478 mi on it) I had them rebuilt, of course. I would like to be able to check things out with some cut-away valve covers so I could see whats going on with the engine running. Any ideas? |
You should be good to go with the Rotella.
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buy a set of cheapy baldy valve covers and cut the tops out. You can usually find them on Ebay for around $25.00 a pair. If you can't find them there, let me know. I have two pair and I'll sell you one of them.
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Diesel oil doesn't have as much zinc in it as it used to; for the same reason gasoline oil doesn't. It still has more, just not as much as it used to.
15W-40 is kinda heavy for this time of year in my corner of the galaxy. Not sure what the weather is there, but I bet it's above 25*. I don't need 40 oil in my engine because of tight tolerances. But your builder should guide you what your engine needs. For a new engine, I use the cheapest 5W-30 dino oil I can find, and 2 bottles of comp cams break in additive (11qt system). I run that for about 30-60 minutes, and 2-3 heat cycles in the garage. Then I drain and fill with the same thing, and drain after 2-3 gentle heat cycles on the street. Then I put in the good stuff. As for watching what's going on - good luck with that. Even at idle things are moving so fast you really don't learn much. You'll learn more by using machinists dye and rotating the engine by hand. |
i don't think you'll be able to see the roller tips moving with the engine running, it has been ran already, take the covers off for a visual, if they look good go a little longer and give another.
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As far as the ticking, it can be perfectly normal with some cam lobe profiles. Cams will often sound like sewing machines and that's normal. As for preload, FE's want more preload than the normal stud mounted rocker deal. My advice is to try at least a full turn of preload past zero lash and see if that helps. |
also with an aluminum engine that expands at almost twice the rate as steel, your lifters might take a bit more preload to compensate for the block expansion.
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Danr: thanks for the offer, may take you up on that, but what are "baldys"? Pentroofs with no labels, or the original ford lower rounded covers, if those would even fit ?
I'm used to the old method of adjusting GM valves with the engine running, (at idle) Tighten adjuster nut until clicking stops, then go 3/4 turn more. It threw some oil but not a big problem. Was thinking of using that method on the FE. (my first) Brent: I tightened the adjusters 1/2 turn, I'll try another 1/2. Vector: Good point about the aluminum, hadn't thought about that. Might need the extra 1/2 turn as Brent suggested. The engine ran sweet other than the slight ticking, no smoke, no leaks, plugs clean. Actually sounds milder than I was expecting. Will have to wait until car is finished to run again. |
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a couple of out of focus pics:
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I've been running Rotella T in EVERYTHING for longer than I can remember. Everything from Cat to Briggs and Stratton. I've NEVER had an oil related failure. I wouldn't even consider anything else.
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FE's are a little different....
I would get the engine hot, then run the valves again with it off. Set the intake valve when the exhaust valve starts to open, then set the exhaust valve when the intake valve starts to close. Get to zero lash, don't worry about the pushrod being able to spin, but look for axial play and eliminate it. Once you've done that, go one full turn on the adjuster, then go to the next one. You will need one full turn to get the correct amount of lifter preload on an FE. With solid cam all aluminum engines, lash grows about .010"-.012", so with that frame of mind, your preload would change by that amount. If you run the valves that way and you still have a little noise, I honestly wouldn't sweat it. Some cams are just a little noisy. The Comp Cams Xtreme Energy and XFI lobes have a little ticky-ticky to them.... |
The hydraulic rollers need about .040-.050 of preload - equates to about a full turn from zero when warmed up. Hydraulic rollers will have a light sewing machine sound, but should not be as loud as a solid. If the ticking is loud you might want to check things over. As Bret said - some of the more agressive lobes are noisy.
Its more challenging to set preload on a running FE since the adjusters are dancing up & down on the rocker. As for oil I tend to use any good name brand 10W-40 on dyno break-in with rollers. I'm not real fond of heavy base weight stuff (20W-50 or straight 30) for normal use in these engines - seems to take longer to get a pressure reading. |
Very nice. I had an old Ford friend that said there
were only two colors for cars, "Red and ugly." His family agreed. His daughter was a Dallas Cowboy Cheerleader but when she got a car, she respected her daddy. He liked red! Russell. PS. Beautiful FE!!! |
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I guess it's been at least 25 years now that I have been using Rotella T........ David |
Thanks for all the info guys. I'll reset the valves with the engine hot when I get it running again. Have to fabrcate new fuel lines as I have made changes to the tank pick-up and vent and added a return port for future FI. Engine and tranny are in the car, but not hooked up. Project on hold till after Xmas. Probably won't be runable till mid Jan, I'll let You know how it turns out.
Ted |
I'm heading down to my house in North Port after Christmas. If you need any help or just someone to pass you a beer, let me know. I'd love to help.
Tim |
55312: E-MAIL SENT. (I think)
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Baldy valve covers:
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