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-   -   Which FE Aluminium Block is best? (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/118360-fe-aluminium-block-best.html)

Bernica 12-18-2012 05:43 PM

Is World still producing Shelby blocks? I believe they were when mine was produced....

ERA Chas 12-18-2012 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernica (Post 1223376)
Is World still producing Shelby blocks? I believe they were when mine was produced....

World never produced Shelby anything.

philminotti 12-18-2012 08:27 PM

I love my Pond block. Looks right. Substantial improvements over original design. But for Pete's sake, your builder not only needs to know FE's, he needs to know aluminium FE's. There are issues to be aware of...the major players on this site know the deal with these specialty blocks, but others...caveat emptor.

Phil

RodKnock 12-18-2012 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas (Post 1223375)
Possibly because no living human has ever actually seen your block??.:confused::confused::)

:LOL:

Well, PANAVIA and a bunch of NorCal guys would vouch for me. :3DSMILE:

legenmetals 12-19-2012 09:39 AM

Robert Pond's block is so accurate to the original that NHRA allows its use in some stock classes.

601HP 12-19-2012 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1223364)
David, BTW, that's a question absolutely no one has asked me about my Shelby block. For the record, I didn't care either when choosing a block for my build.

I inserted my comment because I kinda do like the uniqueness of the side-oiler. :eek: And..........I have had a number of folks ask me over the years, because they're "in the know" to some degree, if it was a side-oiler.

For those folks who don't care; side, center, 428, 351, 302, yada yada yada, my comment wasn't focused in your direction! :3DSMILE:

Truth be told, I actually kinda envy you aluminum block owners, Pond, Genesis and Shelby. Here I am stuck with an original Ford iron block side-oiler.;) And dang it, I have a sleeve in #2 cylinder!

David

RodKnock 12-19-2012 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 601HP (Post 1223522)
Truth be told, I actually kinda envy you aluminum block owners, Pond, Genesis and Shelby. Here I am stuck with an original Ford iron block side-oiler.;) And dang it, I have a sleeve in #2 cylinder!

David

Yep, I got tired quickly of looking for a nice original sideoiler block. Weld here, sleeve there and expensive. And most of all, no patience.

601HP 12-19-2012 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1223524)
Yep, I got tired quickly of looking for a nice original sideoiler block. Weld here, sleeve there and expensive. And most of all, no patience.

Mine was a NOS block lying on an engine builders shop floor when I purchased it in 1993. I began driving my car with this engine in late 2004.

In 2008 I was fast tracking at Mid-Ohio off and on for 2 days. I ran the bejesus out of the car, and had a blast. However, if you play with your toys too hard, they will break.

The intake springs on #2 cylinder let loose, the valve dropped, piston smashed the valve into the head, and cracked the cylinder wall.

I almost used that episode to justify purchasing an aluminum block, but my engine guy said he could fix me up with a sleeve. He did that, and 5 years later everything is still good with the engine.

David

gsharapa 12-19-2012 08:03 PM

Love my Pond block.....Mine is a 496 FE built by Keith Craft. Think he uses both Shelby and Pond but Shelby a bit more money and you wait for it Made 682 at the crank and no issues........

RodKnock 12-19-2012 10:35 PM

I should point out that the Shelby block can punched out to 527ci, with the big bore option, which I don't believe the Pond block can do.

But Pond still is the best value, if the pricing differential still remains the same.

fordracing65 12-20-2012 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1223576)
I should point out that the Shelby block can punched out to 527ci, with the big bore option, which I don't believe the Pond block can do.

But Pond still is the best value, if the pricing differential still remains the same.

The Pond block can have a maximum bore of 4.310 with a 4.375 crank, this will give you over 500 ci, the Pond block costs $4,550, the Shelby block is $6,185 and the big bore version is $6,725...

Bernica 12-20-2012 10:15 PM

I have run with 390's, 406's, and 427's since the '60s IMHO, Even the NOS ones you find, once you pay a fortune and find out your have to correct them, don't match up to what you can have now through any of these guys, be it Pond, Shelby, etc...
It's nice to have the iron block with the numbers and all that, and if that is what is important to you, then go for it. It's all a matter of choice......

RodKnock 12-20-2012 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordracing65 (Post 1223706)
The Pond block can have a maximum bore of 4.130 with a 4.135 crank, this will give you over 500 ci, the Pond block costs $4,550, the Shelby block is $6,185 and the big bore version is $6,725...

The website states a max 4.310 bore and 4.375 stroke for 511 cubes.

undy 12-21-2012 04:36 AM

Just thinking out loud, as a side note...

I think it's totally rediculous punching out a brand new high dollar block to it's max bore for no other reason to gain a little cubic inch bragging rights.:rolleyes:

I had my Pond block finished to it's smallest bore (4.25"). If I bust a ring and score a cylinder there's enough meat to take it to the next size. Again, that's just me.

RodKnock 12-21-2012 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by undy (Post 1223719)
Just thinking out loud, as a side note...

I think it's totally rediculous punching out a brand new high dollar block to it's max bore for no other reason to gain a little cubic inch bragging rights.:rolleyes:

I had my Pond block finished to it's smallest bore (4.25"). If I bust a ring and score a cylinder there's enough meat to take it to the next size. Again, that's just me.

I do agree with you in principal and that's why I have a 4.25" stroke and bore for 482ci. But I was only pointing out one minor difference between the two blocks.

Having said that, considering that I don't drive my car 10,000 miles per year, I kinda wish I did punch it out to 500+ cubes or even the 527 cube max. Worst case scenario, if something bad happens to the engine, then you just re-sleeve the block. The aluminum blocks already have sleeves.

It's only time and money. :eek: :LOL:

undy 12-21-2012 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1223763)
I do agree with you in principal and that's why I have a 4.25" stroke and bore for 482ci. But I was only pointing out one minor difference between the two blocks.

Having said that, considering that I don't drive my car 10,000 miles per year, I kinda wish I did punch it out to 500+ cubes or even the 527 cube max. Worst case scenario, if something bad happens to the engine, then you just re-sleeve the block. The aluminum blocks already have sleeves.

It's only time and money. :eek: :LOL:

I understand that you were making a comparison and my reply wasn't pointed in your direction.

With 4.25" bore in a Pond block you still have the ability for 2ea 0.030" bore increases.

I believe pond sleeves are "cast in" the block, not sure how easy it is to resleeve. I hadn't heard (in my limited experience) of anyone resleeving a Shelby or a Pond blockl.:confused:

RodKnock 12-21-2012 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by undy (Post 1223769)
I understand that you were making a comparison and my reply wasn't pointed in your direction.

With 4.25" bore in a Pond block you still have the ability for 2ea 0.030" bore increases.

I believe pond sleeves are "cast in" the block, not sure how easy it is to resleeve. I hadn't heard (in my limited experience) of anyone resleeving a Shelby or a Pond blockl.:confused:

I thought these blocks had replaceable sleeves, but I'm often wrong. Nothing new there. :)

I've had a few engines built over the years, but I haven't had to tear them down and rebuild them. I guess I've been fortunate. So based upon my experience, maybe I should have gone the big bore route. Waiting for something bad to happen, twice, so that I can have the ability to overbore a couple times seems superfluous to me. At least now it does.

rodneym 12-21-2012 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock (Post 1223782)
Waiting for something bad to happen, twice, so that I can have the ability to overbore a couple times seems superfluous to me. At least now it does.

Good point.

RICK LAKE 12-22-2012 04:49 AM

have many options for over boring
 
Guys this is why custom pistons are made. 4.250 is a base size. As far as pistons, you can go .010", .015", .017", .020, .025 or .027. Then comes the big one at .030" over After this if you still have a block that is square, you can go from .030" to .080" before sleeve time and start all over. The big thing is the block not getting spun mains or camshaft bearing spun. In Aluminum these are also repairable. All you need is a good welder and machinist.
As for Dick S 198 record asK Joe B in Cali. I think he is still alive and has built many of Dick's motors. Have to remember that fuel was alot better back then with 160 octane, and 14.5 compression was not uncommon for a motor to run. I know the rear tires where largest he could fit in the rear wells. The windshield was tilted back, and the front end was low on the ground for a wedge effect. Rick L.

undy 12-23-2012 05:35 AM

198... phhttt. My DD does 207:rolleyes::LOL:


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