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For 7 years I and 7,000 miles, I ran CSX 3183 with a road draft tube from the rear of the intake and the intake oil fill tube with a oil cap on it. Never had any oil residue on the intake, or any oil, gunk, goo or mist from the tube.
Run the Pentroofs, without holes, get the "RIGHT LOOK" period correct, and never worry, if it worked originally , and worked for me, it will work for you. |
There is another factor which I don't recall being discussed which is compression blow-by the piston rings building pressure in the crankcase. There needs to be sufficient ventilation from the crankcase or pressure will build. I have similar questions on how to structure the crankcase ventilation system. I have a Keithcraft FE stroked crate engine that has a hose from the drivers valve cover to air cleaner carb intake, a puke tank with road draft and connection to the rear intake manifold and crank case and a vented oil fill cap and I still blew the oil fill cap off the breather at Fontana this summer. It seems my engine needs more crankcase ventilation area. Any idea how much bypass flow is created by the oil rings at 4000 RPM, etc? What is a acceptable positive crankcase pressure?
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Correction - after more looking I see that some Corvette's as early as 64 ran a PVC hookup off of the oil fill tube. Not sure what tney did with the draft tube - left it operational or blocked it off. |
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As you can see there is no breather or PCV coming from the valve covers.. There is what looks like a PCV coming from the intake manifold and a oil tube/breather on the right side of the manifold. Motor runs great and no sludge/gunk/crap build up of any kind.. Besides that give me an excuse to "blow out the motor" once in a while..
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Cheers, Glen |
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Gunking is very unlikely.
Depending on the atmospheric conditions you are running in you may get some white/gray jelly and moisture condensation on the underside of those unvented valve covers. The covers are the physically highest point in the crankcase, and are exposed to cooler outside temperatures - hence they will be where any condensation forms. Ford and GM moved their ventilation from the intake to the valve covers 45 years ago for a valid reason. If cosmetics are critical - and I personally see that as a legitimate concern - then you need to have a PCV of some sort just to promote airflow through the engine in an effort to purge vapors. If located in the rear of the intake as commonly done you need to do extra work to prevent oil leakage and consumption - baffles and a liquid containment loop in the vacuum lines will help. But you are now reliant upon just the oil breather cap area for WOT ventilation and that may not be adequate for some engines under high RPM loads. This is not a new problem - those tall "S" shaped breathers and catch cans all came into being for a reason... |
It's great to see Barry weigh-in here and we need him to do that more often.
But the silly man places a priority on making a living rather than educating us with his experience. :JEKYLHYDE All his points are valid-no contest. But I can say from my experience, in my case, the open fill tube breather and the rear intake-mounted PCV causes no issues such as he mentions. And yes, the valve IS working. The sheet metal tray in the valley prevents liquid (not vapor) from being pulled through the valve and line. The engine stays clean and the exhaust smoke-free. The Pentroofs never have the moisture milkshake. In fact, I used to run the S-shaped rear breather he mentions and it caused oily sweat but not dripping wet. This PCV solved that. But one should certainly check for those signs when installing a PCV system. |
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