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Changing valve seals in car
After my last few threads re; problems after break-in, and replacing intake gaskets with 1246S-3, my left bank plugs are still oil fouling. I guess I'll try to change them out for the vitons, ( present ones are white, seem very stiff, can't dent them with a fingernail ) eng has about 700mi on it.
Blykins mentioned a valve spring compressor he uses that he found on e-bay, which I believe i found, but it's twice the price brent mentioned, so I can't be certain it's the right one. I need one that will work in the car, I've tried a couple of them that I borrowed, but the lever orientation was such that the lever would hit the int/carb or the fender/ foot box/ tubing before the spring was compressed enough. So, has any one have on that works in the car that they can post a picture/ dimensions of ??? Thanks, Ted |
Here's a link on valve spring replacement, but not much more to replace the seal. HTH
Replacing Valve Springs w/out Removing Heads |
Get this tool:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps03600bd0.jpg From this guy: Tim Oelerich 262 388 2509. Don't waste time with screw clamp type or anything else. Pay his price and don't cut corners---it makes the job cake. I did mine with intake off but I think you can get the leverage with a breaker bar in the drive hole like I did. Ask Tim. Use air line in the plug holes, not rope. Here's the vitons you want; get the right stem diameter: http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...psd68ed60c.jpg |
That's the one I have. It works slick, even with the intake/carb on. I use it to put the inner springs back in after a flat tappet break-in. A breaker doesn't exactly line up all the way, so I use a 1/2" drive ratchet. If the engine hasn't been ran long, we don't even use air. Just pull the piston to TDC, then if you jerk the compressor down, it will usually unseat the locks and away you go.
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Thanks Chas and Brent ! I did see that one, so I'll go with it.
I did replace a broken spring with a lever type, ok comming off, but would only grab the outer spring going back on . I safety wired all 3 together at the bottom to get it back on ! Not about to do that 8 times ! Thanks again' Ted |
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I used this spring compressor which grabs both springs and a magnet to take the locks off. Keep valves from faling into the cylinder by feeding compressed air into it by means of a modified sparkplug.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...ng_removal.jpg |
I have installed 1000's of seals, in-car, with one of these. This tool has made me a lot of money. Lisle 36200 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Here is a video of the tool in action. Although he is using it on the bench, you will get the idea of how it works. To use it in-car, the cylinder would be filled with compressed air. Valve spring compressor remover tool demonstration - YouTube
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The demo is an import head with a mousey single spring. Hand pressure will not budge a 140+pound on seat spring set without leverage. |
tbone: that IS a slick tool, but as Chas says " not for dual springs with damper and 140# seat pressure". At any rate, job is done, but I can't show you what I used for my spring compressor on the grounds that I might incriminate myself !!!
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Same thing came up to my mind:I doubt I can compress the double springs on my heads just by pushing. Good for smaller springs but not on monster ones we have on BBs
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What happened to using this one?? What shameful thing did you use for a spring compressor:confused: |
well, I had the seals comming in next day, so I figured if I could come up with something before they arrived I could "getter done" and not have to wait for the 3-4 day shipping on the "Real" compressor and save myself $150 bucks ! win-win.
All I can say is that all parts required were "in stock". Photo evidence has been expunged! |
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I can't bench press 150lbs with one hand. |
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