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Aviad Oil Pan Installation?
Can anyone offer any suggestions on how to make sure my oil plan does not leak. I understand that the 427FE leaks but I would really like to get this part right (and I never have). I don't know the number of the part but it is a two stage pan with a windage tray and the pan itself.
1) I am wondering if there is a process for installing the first pan, then bolting up the pickup...and then putting in the next pan? 2) What is the preferred gasket? The last time I used two cork gaskets and it seems to leak now more than the last time. 3) I also seem to have a leak where the dipstick tube is now (which I didn't have the last time I tried this process. 4) is there a preferred sealant to use? 5) Should i let the sealant sit overnight first before installing either part of the tray/pan? I have read a lot but nothing as to the process, preferred gaskets, etc. Any help would be appreciated. FWIW, the car is up on a lift with the engine in the car. Thanks, Kramer. |
I'm interested in the answers from engine builders, because my Aviaid pan has always leaked. It was worse in the past, than now.
Early on I contributed to leaks by over-torqueing the pan bolts. The tighter I twisted the bolts, the greater the tendency to leak. Excessive tightening distorts the pan's flange around the bolt hole. Years ago I had the pan off for some reason and noticed the distortion at the bolt holes. I flattened those areas before re-installing the pan. I use a pair of cork gaskets, and NOW tighten to about 5-7 pound feet of torque. That's not much. Instead of bolts, I use studs and flanged nuts. I still get some drips. David |
Yeah, gotta love this aftermarket stuff.
Make sure it's not leaking from somewhere else first, like a pinhole in a weld bead, or something like that. I use the rubber nitrile gaskets from Felpro, but the cork works just as well. I glue the first gasket on with tacky gasket adhesive, making sure to cut around the rear main cap bolts/nuts with a hobby knife, also making sure to cut around the rear main cap drain hole. If that drain is blocked, you can get a rear main seal leak... You can lay down a layer of lithium grease or RTV on the gasket, then put the windage tray on. On the FE Cobra pan, the oil pump pickup bolts to the windage tray, so you have to put the tray on first, then bolt the pickup to the pump and attach it to the windage tray stud. You can use the gasket adhesive or RTV on the tray, then lay down the gasket, again, looking to make sure that everything clears on the rear of the block. I use another layer of grease or RTV again, then bolt the pan up. It seems that heat cycles really get to these things, and if you use fasteners without lock washers, it can contribute to the issue as well. A lot of my customers seem to like the appearance of the Aviaid pan over the others, but the truth of the matter is that I've had more leakers than non-leakers. |
I have an Aviad on mine and it was replaced just before I bought it. The sealant was applied (black RTV version) and let sit overnight. Then the plan was installed. Its pretty good for not leaking. Bolts were replaced with studs on the rear to ease in the installation.
Phil |
I have an Aviad on a 385 series and initially tried the one piece rubber that leaked. Someone suggested permatex "right stuff" so I tried it and now I don't have any leaks. I also used studs in the rear to assist with the install as well.
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Sort of related - I've never seen this done before and wouldn't normally think it would be effective, but - when I picked up my KC stroked FE I noticed they had neatly run a bead of black RTV (not sure what) all the way around the exterior of the gasket on the pan. I don't know if they do this as a way to protect against leaks or purely for cosmetics reasons. :confused: Someone has commented that it increases the effort to remove the oil pan but that's OK if it doesn't leak
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I'm with a couple of others here.
#1 go to studs rather than bolts as this will make your life much easier and cleaner. Trying to align and bolt in 4 different layers while also bolting up the oil pick-up is a huge hassle that no one needs. With the studs in place, aligning each layer becomes quite simple. I also have used rubber gaskets but have found no real difference. #2 I also use "The Right Stuff" it's amazing but it's also quite tenacious, it'll stick to anything that touches it and it's a Biiiaaaach! to wipe off. Not like RTV at all. But if you use studs with layers of: Right Stuff/pan gasket/RS/windage tray/RS/pan gasket/RS/block and use flange nuts (or lock washers) that you DON'T tighten the snot out of I believe you'll be fine.:D |
Thanks everyone... I am going to attempt to use the information and attack it this week
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Test fit the windage tray. Don't be surprised if the front bolt holes that go into the timing cover are not even close. It appears that Aviad welds the front "u" to the rest of the tray as a separate part and then grinds them smooth. After I fix them so everything fits I will glue a gasket to each side of the tray. Then its gray RTV on each end for assembly - a super thin layer like a coat of paint. The pans don't leak then - until they loosen up. Studs and serrated head nuts help....after you tighten them. I've been known to accidentally get a little silicone on the threads... :)
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I Laser cut a two piece frame out of 1/8" SS to back the pan under the bolt heads. It does help to prevent the pan lips from warping if you over tighten the bolts.
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Scroll through this thread... good info here, hell, on everything
Engine Build Thread - 427ci FE Big Block - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum You may want to sign up to see the pictures |
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