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thanks, what type of filter do you recommend?
I have heard stories of using a filter with the least resistance, but that seems to me to be like asking a stockist for a set of sky hooks. As for the disributor, I am using one of these, Accel Street Billet Electronic Distributors | JEGS which isn't stock, but I don't know how strong it is, the blurb says 'Center less ground steel shaft with upper and lower Oil Lite bushings.' 'Steel alloy drive gear, compatible with either flat tappet or hydraulic roller camshafts.' - which doesn't mean much to me....! |
thanks, what type of filter do you recommend?
I have heard stories of using a filter with the least resistance, but that seems to me to be like asking a stockist for a set of sky hooks. As for the distributor, I am using one of these, Accel Street Billet Electronic Distributors | JEGS which isn't stock, but I don't know how strong it is, the blurb says 'Center less ground steel shaft with upper and lower Oil Lite bushings.' 'Steel alloy drive gear, compatible with either flat tappet or hydraulic roller camshafts.' - which doesn't mean much to me....! |
Quote:
Ford / Motorcraft FL-1A is supposedly rated for a burst pressure of 200 PSI: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1814632 OTOH, a different source lists different #s (hey, it's the Internet, right?): FL1A, 300 psi burst rating on the canister. FL1HP 600 psi burst rating canister. Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum - View Single Post - FL1A Vs. FL1HP? FWIW, I just checked and there is no burst pressure listed on the FL-1A filters and packaging in my garage. Mobil 1 M1-301: 600 PSI!! Engine Oil Filter Study |
Kevin,
I am referring to the oil pump drive shaft that connects to the distributor. Cycle guy Brian has you covered with oil filters and oil filter study reports. Lots of good info there. I use the FL1A. And VR1 10-30. John |
Thanks John, Brian, looks like I need to do some reading before next venturing out into the garage.
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When I redid my 427 side oiler back in 2000 I used a new Melling high volume pump that had been all romanced. It came with an optional shim for the relief spring. I installed that shim and now feel that I shouldn't have My normal oil pressure is almost 70 psi Starting engine really tested the drive gear roll pin. The engine cold runs terrible at low idle. revving has to be slight until oil warms up. When I bought the car in 1999, I was warned to keep revs low until The oil temp gauge showed at least140°
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Guys do not use heavy oils unless your PSI reading are low.
Please read the facts and not myths and do not get emotionally connected with oils since your engine does not care about what you think and what brand it is. Trust facts & science = save your engines for many many miles! LINK: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ |
Mike, possibly your engine is hot due to heavy oil.
Oil must circulate fast and to be in direct contact with all metallic hot parts. This seems is not happening at your case. If your PSI oil is at 70 @ 1000rpm then use a thinner oil and monitor how oil psi performs with engine and oil temperatures accordingly. When a cold engine starts and a very heavy oil does not circulate fast enough. Imagine what kind of wear is happening every time (metal to metal friction). On top of that when engine oil is getting hot is loosing even further the viscosity parameters and becomes even heavier next time. The ideal situation is to use a 5W30, 0W40, 5W40 with oil psi 15+psi @ 1000rpm and 10psi more for every 1000rpm when hot. If the above does not happen then you need to consider getting a high volume oil pump so you can use thinner oil to cool and lubricate fast every part + to get proper oil psi coverage. |
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