My worn follower wouldn't come out the top, but I was able to drop it out the bottom once the cam was removed. If you can't removed the cam due to the damaged follower, you may have a bit more of a challenge on your hands.

Paul

I started the reassembly today, but on unpacking Doug's H+M cam and followers, I discovered that it has shell rather than dumbbell type followers, which obviously means longer pushrods.

My question is, would it be easier and possibly cheaper to buy a new set of dumbbell followers, or do I need to get some custom length pushrods?

I have Dove roller rockers and I've just ordered some new posts, end-supports and spacers from Precision Pumps.

Thanks,
Paul

The lifter and the lobe disappear like this from lack of rotation.

Can happen suddenly and failure occurs in a short period.

Gary

Yes + 1.

The lifters are considered used. Swapping a cam to another engine needs new lifters.

Can you post a pic?
Never heard of Dumbbell followers.

Here is a link to the Comp Cams solid "dumbbell" lifter:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5-16/overview/

Based on the advice being given, I should be buying new lifters in any case. In retrospect, it would probably have been easier to buy a new cam and lifters from the outset, rather than buying dcdoug's used items.

I've had a closer look at the other lifters that I took out of the engine and they're worn flat on the cam end, rather than having the necessary convex profile, so they were all on the way out.

Paul

The link doesn't work Paul.

I've searched Summit for "dumbbell" and I can't find that either.

Gary

Gary - Google AT2084

Dumbbell.. :-)
They have a reduced diameter (neck) from halfway to a quarter up to save weight.
Actually look like a mini dumbbell.

Update...

I'm now talking to Brent about a custom ground cam rather than using Doug's old cam, so I think I'll be going down that route instead.

Anyone want a Holman + Moody cam and followers? :rolleyes:

Paul

They appear to be the standard/original type for FE's although most of the suppliers now seem to sell the lighter hollow shell type and use longer pushrods.

If I were starting from scratch, I'd probably go down the shell route, but as my top-end has been setup for the dumb-bell type, I'll stick with those.

Paul

Yes Paul, I thought that's what we are talking about here, wasted at the middle.

Looks like a dumbbell, just never heard referenced in that manner.

Lightweight solid lifters makes more sense for me, :).

Gary

Update:

I gave up on the original idea of using Doug's used H&M cam and followers and Brent spec'ed up a new cam for me specifically for my engine and intended use.

This is what he came up with:

...........................Intake................. ..........Exhaust
Total Lift:.............. 589" ............................ 600"
Duration @ .050":.. 242" .............................244"

Valve Timing @ .050": ........ Open ........................ Close
Inlet: .............................. 17 BTDC ................... 45 ABDC
Exhaust: ......................... 58 BBDC .................... 6 ATDC
Intake Centreline: .......... 104 degrees
LSA: ............................ 110 degrees

The engine is now all back together and back in the car and the dreaded cam break-in procedure has been done, so I'm now ready to hit the road, apart from one thing........me!

A couple of weeks ago I managed to totally detach my left bicep while at the gym. I needed surgery to reattach it, which involved drilling an 8mm hole into my Radius bone and fastening the loose end on my bicep into it with screws and a metal "button" on the back to prevent it pulling through.

I can lift nothing heavier than a cup of tea for 4 weeks and then I can very slowly start adding some weight.

I'm hoping to be able to start driving again in a couple of weeks.

Thank you everyone for your help, especially Brent, who was very helpful and patient with my endless questions.

Paul

There's a lot of advance ground into that cam.

To give you an idea, it has 6 degrees of advance, take that out, we end up at 11/51 on the inlet, 52/12 on the exhaust.

So depends on what you want the engine to do.

I would like figures of 13/49, 54/10.

But your lift increase will certainly help.

Valve springs to match of course.

Gary

If compression allows, I always grind a lot of advance into my street cams. The throttle response and snap is very much noticeable.

Most of my 110 LSA cams end up on a 104 ICL. My 106 and 108 LSA cams will usually end up at either 102 or 100 ICL, if the piston/valve clearance and the compression ratio will play nice with each other.

I haven’t driven it yet, but it sounds great. :)

That sounds like a painful injury. Hope you have a speedy recovery and get a chance to try it out.

Yes, I'd like to try that combo one day soon with the next combo of 410+, no hints yet, :)