Club Cobra - Oil Cooler Adapter Oil Leak

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)

- FE TALK (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/)

- - Oil Cooler Adapter Oil Leak (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/142290-oil-cooler-adapter-oil-leak.html)

Try recto seal #5 and the permatex ultra black I have had many leaks on my car and have had no issues after properly applying the products mentioned .

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1461403)

The BBM blocks have a drill-through on the top left oil filter adapter bolt hole. It intersects the main oil galley that runs the length of the block.

You will need to remove that bolt, put a little silicone in the hole, then silicone around the bolt head.

This is the kinda thing that we have to watch out for with aftermarket parts. It’s a very tiny hole that’s broken through, but with 70 psi behind it, it will leak quick.

This is why I prime the oil pump on the stand, before the engine is started.

I wish to thank all who replied to my question especially Brent Blykins. I did just what Brent suggested above and it seems to have remedied the problem.
BD

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1461406)

It’s already broken through, that’s why it’s leaking. Two BBM blocks that I have here are like that. I caught one when I primed it. The hole isn’t that big, prob .060” or so, but it’s enough.

The fix is what I described up above. Put some silicone in the hole, put some under the bolt head and washer.

I also think you could get a short 5/16-18 set screw, coat it in silicone, then screw it all the way in until it bottoms out, then bolt the adapter on.

Brent, does this fix the oil adapter leaks on just the BBM blocks or does it also apply to OEM SO blocks? I don't think my Precision Oil Pump adapter has any stress cracks so either my steel hydraulic hose fittings are leaking or it's coming from the upper left bolt.

Factory blocks are not drilled through. We normally don't have issues with factory stuff. The aftermarket stuff can be challenging. The BBM blocks have holes that have been drilled too deep and the older Pond blocks aren't drilled deep enough.

You probably have a fitting that leaks, or a spot where the gasket is not intact.

Although the silicon might work until it fails, it’s not designed to resist oil under pressure and doesn’t lend itself to quick reassembly. Therefore instead of a fix, a proper engineered solution is needed to enable a long term peace of mind. If I understand this right, somewhere along the thread in the block, an oil galley hole has broken through and oil is escaping along the threads and finally, under the tightened bolt head that, has of course no real seal. In this case, I would carefully drill then ream the first few threads out of the offending tapped hole. Hopefully there will be 3/16-5/16 before you get to the oil hole Then I would machine an O-ring groove in the plain part of the bolt shaft, such that when screwed in the (suitably specified) O-ring will engage with the short reamed bore and form a proper seal between the block and the bolt shaft. Obviously you must remove all swarf and you can prevent it entering the engine, by putting a grub screw in first, the blow it out with an air gun. I truly sympathise with the OP’s predicament. Good luck and don’t forget to remove the screw!
If that’s not possible, I’d consider a longer bolt and use a steel washer, sandwiched between two copper washers, that did up against the outside of the adaptor block and not the counterbore. Copper washers are used on brake unions, so they’d sure resist oil pressure.

Use liquid teflon!!

Joe the builder at Shelby Engine Co has built hundreds of FEs and this is what he uses. I tried it and BOOM it worked.
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-Tr...gateway&sr=8-8
I still have a leak around the base of the adaptor. I have tried everything, I think I will try this
www.HYLUBE.com- Remote Filtration/ Wet Sump Systems- Chatsworth, Ca.

When I get back after driving my Cobra I take a look under the car for leaks. About a week or so ago I noticed an oil film on the oil pan and bell housing but no drips on the garage floor. Upon further inspection I determined that this oil cooler adapter area was leaking oil again. I tightened the oil line connections thinking that my be where the leak is coming from. Long story short, among some other issues I discovered a crack on the adapter between the two oil line connections. Below is photo of the crack. How did this crack? Did I apply to much torque to the oil line fittings?
BD

Wrong or no thread sealant and overtorqueing taper threads will crack housings like this design.

Gary