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Stud girdle or Cross Bolt
I posted awhile ago that I was doing another 428 build, I have almost everything ready to start and my machinist had asked if I'm still considering to do the machining for cross bolting the block, he suggest to save the money and just add the stud girdle since the use of the motor will be for mostly street use.
Anyone have experince crossbolting a 390/428 or used a stud girdle. |
If it's for street use, don't mess with either. Most street 445's and 462's will make about 550-575 hp and the blocks are strong enough to handle that without any special modifications.
I will tell you though, that the stud girdles are a machining nightmare. |
Thanks for the reply. Brent have you used main stud girdles on some of your previous builds?
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Main stud girdles cost way more in time and money (maybe they are the same) than they are worth.
Cross-bolting a block that was not cast with the bosses for cross bolting is another cosmetic feel-good event. It will not produce the effect you are hoping for. Additionally, it will require replacing your existing main caps with main caps that have enough meat to cross-bolt. That usually means several hundred dollars for caps, and then don't forget, you will need to align bore the block. If a side-bolted block was what you wanted for your finished engine, it would have been to your advantage to start with a casting produced as a side-bolted piece. If you ignore the cosmetic enhancement that adding side bolts to a non-side bolted block provides, you have not increased the strength of the assembly at all. It is possible you could have decreased the strength of the finished assembly. Don't waste your time or money putting side bolts on a non-side bolt block. If side bolts are important to you, get a side-bolted block to start with. |
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When it gets to a power level where you think about damaging the block, I always upgrade to an aftermarket block. |
We used stud girdles for head that were "a thousand years old" L88/ZL1 Chevvies to help the rocker arm studs (threads). That was fairly straightforward. However, when adjusting the valves you are constantly chasing your own tail, cos the girdles bend the assembly slightly every time you tighten it.
What I am saying is: This is very old school. And not the best part of it. As for cross bolting mains (for your Ford) I can also refer to the Can-Am ally chevies, which had 4-bolt mains. And could take 1.000 hp (today), which was similar to having turbos back then. I admit, they did not race 24 hours like a GT40, but will you? Post a pic of a Ford with stud girdles. I am curious to see. |
I used a stud girdle on my Toro rider to keep harmonic vibrations from reducing my plug life. Whenever I was in the back 40 and hit the tall grass, I would use a 100 shot to pick up a little speed. The problem I ran into was high-frequency spark plug oscillations. The stud girdle did wonders for my plug life, and I didn’t need to change the heat range or gap!
Later, when the cutting blades needed sharpening on my BIG mower, I discovered that side bolting the main caps in my V-2 Tecumseh improved the time between oil changes. I no longer needed to add chicken fat to the oil for increased lubricity. So as you can plainly see, cross-bolting has many and varied benefits for everyone, everywhere, all the time! |
Just cut off the heads of the cross bolts and use a dab of JB Weld to glue them on the side of block. It'll look just the same and it's way cheaper. 550 horsepower will never even get used on the street. You can't even use 400 horses on the street. Even with the best rubber your tires are just going to spin, spin, spin anytime you get on the throttle. If it really is destined to be a street car, and you're not going for wheelies on drag slicks, just go with the glue.:cool:
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A Superior Strategy!
Just think of all the time and money that can be saved! Besides, when you support your local ACE hardware with your fastener purchases, you help provide jobs in the local neighborhood ... I think they might even have JB Weld! Don't forget to cut off the bolt heads before JB Welding them to the side of the crankcase. Remember, JB Weld gives you the strength and precision to get it done right the first time (everytime?), creating a permanent bond on metal, plastic, and wood. (I would not recommend a plastic or wooden block). You can add a static mixer for a precise, no-mess-on-target application. Once cured, it can be milled, drilled, and filled!! — This has to be the proverbial "Screaming Hot Set Up!" Worst case scenario, your local Home Depot has Gorilla Glue if you can't find JB Weld! |
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Also works great on silencing that yappy passenger who insists on talking about his brother's neighbor's 2nd cousin's MOPAR. |
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