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427 dilemma What do you think?
Well guys here is my current issue. I purchased a 427 SO from a previous racer a few months ago. It took me a couple of months to gather the parts needed to de-tune this beast to a streetible motor. I gathered all my stuff up and went for a little trip to my machine shop(2 hours away)and upon close inspection of the block realized that the last guy poured a cement product in the lower 1/2 of the block to stabilize it. George Anderson was nice enough to explain this process to me . I know the best thing is to replace the block and move on but several people have told me that the motor wont run that hot and for me to go ahead with the planned work. The block needs to be bored. I just dont want to throw money away and end up with a nonusable street motor.I dont know if it helps but my current 390 runs at a steady 200-210. I have a aluminum rad and several electric fans, edelbrock waterpump , 2 4barrell aluminum Dove intake. What do you think? Boat anchor or not? Olaf:CRY: :CRY: :CRY:
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It probably won't run that hot, as long as he didn't fill it so far that no coolant can flow through it at all.
The real problem is that it will retain heat, long after you shut it down, and without coolant flowing, that heat will build with no where to go unless you put a timer on your (electric) waterpump/fan combo and have a super battery. My personal opinion, look for something else, whether it be a 428 block or keep looking for another 427. |
Sounds like a money monster to me. :(
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1/2 Fills
I know a guy running a 443 cube FE with a 1/2 filled block on the street (100+ deg weather) with no problems. Note that some OEM blocks have shallow waterjackets. What makes this possible is the fact that the bulk of the heat is near the head where the combustion takes place. I've spoken with a couple of engine builders that 1/2 fill street motors. They both say that water temp will stay under control with a good cooling system but that oil temperature may still rise. Both recommmend a good oil cooler. You can't simply rely on synthetic oil either since bearings will sweat the softer metal at high temperature.
You do need to have the waterjacket very clean when doing the fill and should fill the block before boring and honing. I'd have the main caps in place and torqued to spec. This is an important matter for me too, since my 486 FE is half filled. Dan Jones Dan Jones |
Hi OLAF I have an Shelby all alum. motor and it only holds 1 gallon of coolant. I was told that the iron blocks will hold 1 1/2 gallons of coolant. I have the edelbrock waterpump, march pulley, alum. radiator, 3 fans that came with the ERA car. I run a 180 thermostat. On a hot day the motor runs 200F racing. The march pulleys are underdrived 30%. I have now had a problem with it yet. 1/4 mile racers fill blocks to help stablize blocks but they run for 5 minutes at a time and are cooled off after a run. I would drill out what you can and try it. DON'T hit the cylinder walls with the bit. any kind of water flow will help. Good luck. Rick Lake
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Olaf:
This was one of the problems which I had with my previous engine. The builder in Maryland did exactly what you describe, all the while denying vehemently he was doing it. The engine overheated at virtually any outside air temperature above 60 degrees F while driving below about 40 mph, because I couldn't get adequate coolant through the engine. I also had additional problems with inadequate oil pressure. The end result was a spun rod bearing, a destroyed crankshaft, a cracked block and a long legal process. IMHO, the block is likely unsuitable for street use. If you do try to salvage it, make very sure you have it checked for cracks following whatever work you do. The temperature gradient between the cooled and uncooled portions of the block may have resulted in cracks in the uncooled lower portion of the block where the cooling jacket meets the vertical exterior sides. Good luck. |
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