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Lifting points
How complete do you have your FE when you install it?
Where do you pick from?I have a cast block w/aluminum heads and 2x4 tunnel wedge intake. I had the engine down to short block when I removed it.I used a arm type crain from the front, that at its last hole it was 6 to 8 inches too short.What did you do? Did you make or buy a special brackets ? |
I just dropped my 427 with a Toploader in last night, I used the holes in the head with a peace of angle iron bolted to them.
Mike |
You mean the two holes front left and right rear ?
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Michael,
I suggest using the "Cherry picker" again, but this time ask for a spreader bar that is set up to accept a chain with hook in each end. Using the intake manifold bolt holes (without manifold) bolt on an "eye plate" to the front and another "eye plate to the rear. Right or left doesn't matter as long as they are diagonal across the engine. Make VERY sure you use all of the threads in the bolt hole in the head. Now, you engine will pivot on the center of the spreader bar and the hooks and chain from the ends of the spreader will allow you to reach bottom without hitting the car's body. Most are adjustable. |
Don't hang the chain from the intake bolts, the threads will go away on you after not too long. Use the bolt holes on the ends of the heads. If you're cool, you will beg borrow or steal an "engine tilter" which has two chains for the front of the motor, two for the rear, and a crank so you can angle the engine/ tranny exactly how you would want to to slide it in. No more pushing down here, lifting up there, to get it all aligned. Oh yeah, some engine hoists don't have enough boom length to get your motor all the way in without running the hydraulic ram into the front end of the car. Don't use one of those hoists, get one with the long enough boom.
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Mr. Fixit,
Do you think the holes in the ends of those aluminum heads are deep enough to get enough thread contact? |
The holes in each end of the heads will work just fine, use grade 8 bolts and don't forget to put a couple of shop rags under the chain so not to scrach the paint.
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The important thing about those bolt holes is they are perpendicular to the force being applied by the chain. That way the threads will not get pulled out. Don't forget washers on those bolts either, I have seen a chain sneak through the hole in one of the chains links before, bummer when that guy smashed his brand new oil pan on the crossmember. Shove shop rags between the chains and where they lay up on the motor to avoid scratches.
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Tilters are a godsend for anyone doing engine changes, particularly if installing trans on engine at the same time. Last time I looked, they were $69, or $79 from Summit.
Tilter crank points toward rear of car. Toward front, and you can't turn crank when engine tilted back with trans on creeper. Drop trans tailshaft on creeper so it will roll back easily with motor. You can add an extra foot or so of hoist reach by drilling an extra set of holes in hoist arm so hoist doesn't hit front of car. Just don't extend hoist arm past centerline of hoist front floor wheels, or hoist will tip over foreward and drop engine. If you need the reach, add reach to floorwheel arms also. Another tip. Support car frame on jackstands, not suspension when putting motor in. This way, frame will not move when engine weight is on frame. With engine weight on suspension, car frame can rest on hoist arms making it impossible to move the hoist. |
If you remove the crank knob from the tilter, you can weld the nut onto the shaft, then just use a 3/4" air ratchet to tilt either way. I like to have the crank towards the frontof the car so it won't hit the firewall, but whatever works for you.
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