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Installing Billett FE rocker stands
Hi Guys
I bought a pair of rocker arm stands for my FE that have end supports form percision oil pumps. They look great and include studs in place of the bolts . I have Edelbrock Heads and solid lifter cam. Has anyone installed these before ? Before I dig in any experience you could offer would be great. Scott |
Yeah!, get extra 'wave springs' and use these with the thin shims to center the rollers on the valve stem, I putem' on and tookem' off, added or removed shims a number of times until they were all centered.
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You Bet, I have the billet shafts, roller rockers, end stands and supports, plus his pushrods, oil pump, and billet oil pump drive. Have a Stock Bore 427 SO with solid lifters, Edelbrock Heads, Intake, and Water Pump. It all works great, take the time to align all the stuff properly and you will like his stuff. Oils better than stock parts at lower RPM because of the rocker oiling design. Have a couple of friens with the same parts, all FE motors, same story.
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Thanks Guys
Rick, what procedure did you use to install the studs for the pedestals? Locktight , etc ? Scott |
I have a question about these end stands...how much extra end support do they provide for the shafts? The flexure of the shaft is upward, away from the head, but it looks like they only use the standard bolt (or stud) to hold them down, with no bolt on the outer end of the stand or shaft to hold the outer end down. Do they rely on the strength of the extended base to prevent the shaft from flexing upward? They appear better than no end support, for sure. Are there end stands that bolt down to the head?
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Ken,
I'm sure there are others that know better than me since I'm not running these but I think the "new" outer shaft support is secured to a head bolt. The original head bolt is replaced with a head stud and the outer shaft support is then secured to the head stud with a nut. Anyone that has a set, please correct me if I'm wrong. Chris |
The end shaft support has an extension on it that goes under the last two rockers and comes back up wrap the end of the shaft. If the car was here I would pull a valve cover and send a pic. Go to ebay and look under 427 ford parts. Precision always has a set for auction/sale with a pic. Nice stuff! I used the bilett spacers ILO the springs. As Rick said take your time and make sure you get the roller tip centered on the head of the valve. Longer guide life.
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Okay, so the Precision stand is "only" held down by the rocker stand bolt (or stud), with no outboard bolt? The photos on Ebay seem to show that also. With this arrangement, for the outer end of the rocker shaft to flex, the lower (base) part of the stand would also need to "lift" or flex.
FWIW, the force trying to bend the shaft is "only" 950 lbs or so {appr. 350 lbs from the open spring plus 616 lbs pushing up through the pushrod [350 lbs open spring pressure x 1.76 (rocker ratio)]}, I guess the extra support is plenty for street use...that works out to only about 100 ft-lbs of torque trying to bend the shaft... |
The studs supplied by Precision are ARP per Doug, I used Loctite Red on them.
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Great info guys
I have a tame Solid and only see street duty. Thanks Mr 0077.The locktite answer was what I was looking for. Scott |
It's all trial and error. It might take 5-6 times to get it right... Be sure to line up the roller rocker shafts as close to the center of the valve stem as possible. You may consider restricting the oil to the roller rockers as they need much less than the OEM units.. Of course be sure the oil passage stud (reduced diameter is in the right pedestal) Be sure to leave enough room between the spacers. Consider thermal expansion.. It seems impossible at first but you can do it.. I have some close ups of the assembled units in my gallery.
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