Elapsed tune on a clutch job....
 

I am losing clutch in fourth gear. Want to get on the dragstrip again. I have a 2800 LB Ram PP to replace the 2400 currently installed. My sense is I need to go with a Kevlar clutch. I am still a little surprised I am having this grip problem, but what is is, I guess.

How long should it take to pull the tranny and replace same? Have a tranny jack.........just need to get a clutch ordered and get motivated.

Anybody have thoughts on this slippage issue? Seeing all these Mustang's doing wheelies, I am still dumbfounded my setup won't hold in fourth gear......I was worned, but gave into concern s from a mechanic over clutch pressure...........should have stood my ground...............

Question 2).

37.5 POUNDS of oil pressure is alot better than nothing. But reading certain posts of late has me nervous. Is 37.5 necessarily too low? I started a thread on this some time ago and answers were all over the board. One thread at the time made sense.........lower oil pressure is not necessarily bad......may be indication of good galleys and lack of restrictions in the system.........is that comment bogus? Should I necessarily have more on a 514? 50 LBS at start up. Runs fine, but pressure gauge hangs between 25 and 50 once warmed up. That is probably at lower RPM's........I need to check higher....somehow at 5000 RPM I always have my eye on the road!

Elapsed Time that is..........

2 1/2 to 3 hours without a lift.. 2 hours with. Maybe less with help.

Thanks. I need to start doing more of this stuff myself.....probably pretty simple once I get thru it a time or two.......

Question:.......some years back when my rotors would get scored (porsche), I used to get out the old drill and "turn" the rotors with some good old fashion medium grit sandpaper........scored them real nice.......bit like hell and the pads would smooth them out within a few hundred miles.......

Is that a viable way to "resurface" the pressure plate? I find it hard to believe I need to take the thing in.....but since my present clutch is slipping, I hesitate to put in all new parts without makins sure the pressure plate is receptive.........

Johnny, on the flywheel resurfacing, if it has no score lines, blue "chatter" or scorched spots, just make sure it is clean (brakekleen, etc.) before assembly, should be okay...but reinstalling without resurfacing after all that work gets me a little puckered until all works out okay...balance the cost of surfacing it against possibly having to R&R your trans/bellhousing/clutch cover, and maybe replace another disc...
On your oil pressure, be sure to check your gage before you kill yourself over low pressure! A fair "rule of thumb" (for above 3000 rpm anyway) is at least 10 psi per 1000 rpm, e.g., 5,000 rpm=50 psi. Hot, mine has 47 psi at idle, 72 psi indicated at 2700 rpm...

Oil pressure in a street motor is overrated. I have heard that anything over 25psi is ok and your gauge is probably not that accurate.

a better way to dress a fly wheel is to use a pnumatic rollock (3m brand or similar) nylon wheel with abrasives built in on an angle grinder. DO NOT GRIND the fly wheel. Merely break the glaze and roughen any shiney areas to increase friction.

jahred,
Here is a type of buffing pad I think will work for you. It attaches to a 5" angle grinder with a plastic adapter. It has female 5/8 x 11 threads and the other end has a round disc covered with plastic spickes to grip the pad. You should be able to get them at any good welding supply store.

A thought I had about the clutch issue is to check the bell housing alignment with a dial indicator before you install the new clutch and pressure plate. It may be out a little.
Bud

George - by "out a little bit" are you suggesting hydraulic T/O bearing is set too close to pressure plate and maybe toucing after some clutch wear???

jahred,

I know nothing about hydraulic clutches. I was not referencing the throw out bearing.

I was suggesting that you check to make sure the transmission mounting surface on the bell housing is perfectly square with the fly wheel. The transmission mounting surface needs to be as square possiable, and can shimmed when necessary.

It is very possiable that even though the transmission can be installed it may be out of alignment some. The clearances between the nose of the transmission imput shaft and the socket in the fly wheel is pretty sloopy. If the bell housing is off, so is the transmission and the clutch disc, since it travels on the splines of the transmission shaft. When the clutch is engaged its' total suface may not be making contact with the pressure plate surface evenly. The clutch works, but will do better if this condition exists and is corrected.

I know from others that they have had to shim their bell housings, espically from Lakewood.

I suggested a dial indicator because if it is off it would make getting the right shims easier. You also mentioned that you were thinking about getting back into Drag Racing, so I assumed that you would want the alignment as close to perfert as possable.

You can also remove one of the bolts attaching the fly wheel and install a piece of threaded rod. As you rotate the fly wheel, you check the distances with a feeler gauge. Not quite as accurate, but will quickly tell you if it a problem or not.
Hope this helps!
Bud