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Hi Paul...
Hi Paul,
no problem, i'd prefer to send the specs to you directly. Another thing I would recommend is for you to seriously consider how you will "actually" be driving the car, on what type of roads, will you get stuck idling a bit in traffic getting to your destination, etc.... Along with the cam, getting your carb dialed spot on makes a big difference too. But, the cam is the Brain to me. After making my decision on the final specs to use (and after multiple David Crower conversations), just to be sure, I ran it through again over and over on various cam software programs using various types of trans/differential gear ratios, compression, etc... and the cam spec changed more than I would have imagined on different types of open or tight road coarse tracks and conditions. I'll send you an email. Please be sure to recheck what I've come up with because selecting a cam that is right for you and your expectations is important. |
mail
Paul,
you have mail. Duane |
it really boils down to how you are going to drive the car. if you will be doing a lot of street racing and not a lot of 2 hour trips, I would use the bigger cam. if you want to be able to go anywhere your heart desires, I'd use the smaller cam. the bigger the cam, the more maintenance you will have to do to the engine and less drivability. you also have to consider suspension modifications, to put the power to the ground. I do a lot of street racing and build my engines barely streetable. the longest trips I take are for about a hour. my mustang has a .640/306d comp cam, it sounds nice and with good port work it puts out plenty of power. a lot of guys like comp cams for fords. I think they run well in fords, but that's only my opinion. some guys around here have .700 lift cams, and they drive them down to racewaypark to race, and drive them back home, although like someone said earlier .700 lift cams and above are hard on the valvetrain.
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