removing intake on 427so
 

I am taking off my intake to do some cosmetic work and realized that the push rods need to come out.I have comp cams billet aluminum roller rockers with billet stands;would it save time and adjustments later to just remove the rocker and stands as a unit?I am thinking that when replaced there should be little adjustment if done that way.Also any advice on removal of the intake is appreciated as well as proper torque of the intake bolts upon replacement.One last question:do any of those intake bolts need to be sealed because they go into a water space? thanks;chuck

Good questions, Endoc. I would be interested in the answer to some of your questions too. I responded so that I will be notified when someone in the know answers.

Paul

Chuck,

I too have a SO and there is no special instructions on removal other than be careful but that goes for any engine. Intake bolts torque to 35 lbs. are tightened in a cris/cross pattern. I put a little permatex on each corner bolt just as a precaution but I don't believe they enter a water jacket. As far as rocker arm removal simply take the four (six) including end stands in your case and lift off. Valve lash is going to have to be reset regardless of disassembly procedure. I have the same Comp system on my 428 and it is sufficient. Make sure you do a final cleaning of the entire rocker shaft assembly prior to installation. Feel free to call me if you have any further questions at 770-664-7670 as I live down the road from you in Alpharetta a few miles from the other Kirkham (TC's). Best wishes!

I think . Remove water from radiator . If you put engine at cylinder #1 then 45 degress more , this will
reduce most of the pressure off valve train . Get a box and make 16 holes in it to place your push rods in ,
number them so you can put them back in the same lifter . ( When pulling out rods , slowly twist them so
they release from lifter , they could be pulled out by mistake )
When putting back together , only use graphite intake gaskets , discard cork front and rear seals
and use high heat (permatex Gold ) in there place . Disgard metal plate under intake too.
Put a light film on each intake and water port , same for intake .
there is a sequence to torking , inside ( carb ) then outer endes , then back " in " to the others .


Change oil , re water .

Thanks Tony,I will probably need to call at some point so I dont screw up too badly. chuck

Chuck,

I would also add ....when you remove and replace your rocker assy. run the bolts out ,and back in one turn each bolt at a time....so as to avoid flexing or even breaking your rocker shaft due to uneven pressure imparted by the valve springs.

I also , very carefully put a small bead of hi-temp sealant around the waterports before reassembly.

And .....DRAIN your radiator..! Aquart of coolant in your crank case can really spoil your fun.....:D

KK

John,

Sorry to disagree, but that tinware under the manifold serves an important purpose. It keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake. The purpose of that being to reduce heat to the intake charge, which in turn makes more power, makes hot starts easier and helps prevent percolation in the carburetor.

Other than this, I would add that it is far better to back the rockers off before removing the assembly. Yes it is much easier to just unbolt the assembly, but, no matter how it is done, there is a real risk of bending pushrods when re-assembling....especially if high valve spring pressure is present.

If the heads are aluminum, it is also very easy to strip the threads for the rocker stand bolts doing the bolt back without releasing rockers. This is because you will begin to put high loads on the bolts with very little thread actually in the head. This situation can also occur with iron heads.

A good rule is to use thread sealer on all of the rocker stand bolts.

While I'm at it, if not already done, when the rocker assemblies are off is a very good time to put in an oil restrictor.

Look at the center bolt hole. You will see a concave depression with a hole in it. That is the oil supply to the rockers. Find a piece of mild steel rod that fits the hole snugly. I think it's 1/4" but not sure anymore. Cut the rod so it fits flush with the bottom of the depression when inserted in the hole. Next, drill a .060" hole through the length of the rod and insert it back in the hole. Obviously the hole should be centered in the rod as best you can. Do this for both heads. The oil supply is now still ample for good lubrication, but not excessive.

Advantage: Keeps oil in the bearings where it is needed instead of pooling in the valve covers.

Al

Thanks for the input guys;hopefully I will not ruin anything. chuck

Al, I remember somewhere that a Holley carb jet works for an oil restrictor with no modifications needed.

Can't remember what size.

Does anyone recall this tip?

Traveler,

You are right about the Holley Jets being used as a oil restrictor and I think the size I was told was .080. I also agree w/ Snake you don't want to put your intake manifold back on without the tin baffel that sets under it.

I just recently changed intake manifolds and sequentially unbolted my roller rocker arm stands 1/2 turn at a time starting from the center out. I placed my rocker arms and push rods on a metal tray in the exact order they came out and then reinstalled them exactly as they came out when I put my new manifold back on. Ran the engine about 15 minutes and checked all my clearances (.023 gap for solid lifters) and everything was still in tolerance.

Clois

While upgrading my stock valvetrain to Dove , I used one of this sites most respected FE builders , he
told me do not to use the tin pan . Must be a reason .

John,it would be great info if you could find out why your builder prefers not to use the pan. chuck

I have roller lifters and the tin pan will NOT fit. If it did , I would use it because it probably won't hurt anything to use it and you might gain some benefit (cooler manifold).

Paul