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Ford alt. connections
I have a Ford alternater mounted on the Right corner.The electrical connection posts are just a fraction away from the head. I see a place for a disconnect or discconnects up stream a few inches and in the open. Three connections Bat, Feild ,and staiter maybe ground strap.
Any reccamendations? |
Michael,
You can reposition the connections on the alternator so they're in a different postion. That is, if the connections are at 2:00, you can rotate them to either the 6:00 or 10:00 positions. There are 3 bolts holding the alternator halves together. Remove the bolts and then without pulling the two halves apart rotate one halve 120 degrees until the bolt holes line up again. If the two halves are stuck and they won't rotate, put the 3 screws back in but don't tighten them. Just get them started and then tap the alternator halves apart. The screws keep the 2 halves from coming all the way apart. Once it's loose, you can rotate it around. You should be able to position the connections so they're not so close to the heads. Chris |
Here's where I cheated. Installed a Delco alternator. Old GM guy that I am. Mounts are similar, ignition goes to field (stator windings) to energize the alternator, bat goes to battery, and the second wire from the 2 wire plug connects to the batt terminal.
There's never any hassle to these things. Fire it up and it charges. Unless you're trying to charge a battery with one or more dead cells, the alternator runs for about 100k miles. Swap it out for another rebuilt ($80 or so) and chugg on for another 100k miles. |
Chris,
Great tech tip! KK |
Now I'm shopping for a diode recamended by Mallory to stop alt. feed back after ignition is turned off. and a a length of 8 gauge wire with the tough and higher temp crosslink insulation.Some places stop at 10 gauge and another skipes right over to 6 gauge. I found a source for the Alt quick connectors that Painless supplies(with only a 12 gauge wire crimped in). Never did get a rating on what a 12 wire would handle.The metal contact has 10/12 stamped into it.I can stick a #8 wire in .It's snug and the strands have to be straight but no cutting any strands.the contacts are rated by manufacture at 75 amps.#8 is a big improvement over #12
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Try Radio Shack for the diode , try West Marine for the 8 gauge wire.
In electrics if you can use a larger gauge wire, especially from a charging source, you help out the charging device ie alt., by reducing it's "demand load", thus making it work not as hard for the same benefit. Also the way a 12v DC system works--simplified--power out wire needs to be the same size as power ground at least---power ground can be a heavier gauge--definitely not smaller--think of it as plumbing--the bigger the opening the higher flow---power flowing out needs to be matched, + needs to be matched to an equal or larger return source - , really does help to increase wire gauge size whenever possible. That way Voltage/Amps remain a constant. Gauges remain more accurate, battery is charged to it's capacity, everyting works, the engine starts faster(given variables)and the Alt is given a new lease on life. Spent a lot of years messing about with DC when I owned boats, and sailed away . Cars are a lot easier to find grounds on than a fibreglass hull;) . Learned a lot about DC electrical wiring after re-wiring a couple of boats for cruising. FWIW |
I plan on running two #8 leads around engine compartment using two parrallel quick disconnects w/75 amp contacts.Then two short leads both connected to the Bat connection on my 73 Amp Ford alt. I also have a plug with two contacts for the Feild and staiter connections.My old set up ran on top of the intake.Heat had gotten to one of the wires at one point.A groungd lead is no problem. One of my hang ups is the labels get lost ,obscured ,etc.I don't like figuring out the wiring every time.When I had to remove my engine last time I had to disconnec t every thing.sevaral of the treminals broke.My set up was not a standard where nice printed diagrams could be had.It took longer than expected I lost what drawings I had made.I want to make it so if I have to go back in things will just unplug and units wont hang from the wires.
Mallory said to put the diode in the "I"wire at the regulator plug. |
Michael
I use a "log" book whenever I mess with wiring--small drawing, red wire goes here, black there, or black to green or whatever the combo....helps a lot when putting something back together and if you run new wire then you make a new drawing showing the connections. Color coded amp rated quick-connects are truly the way to go if you do have to ever remove a part, alt ,starter, lights, gauges, or the engine itself--keep a record for backup of what each color is for in your "log" book--pull the part or piece or engine--when it goes back together just plug color to color. Used this type of system for years on the electrics on boats. Sounds like you are the right track with your alt connections |
Ok I'm ratteled.We had a backyard party yesterday.and had a bunch of iced tea left over.I can't think worth a darn.After the Nascar race I went out and tried to start.Back fire and so on. Went back through the timing and found I was on the wrong cycle !80° out. I went back and retimed It's running but not charging. I have a buzzgoing (strait tea does that to me) and need help to check my wiring.I have A 75 amp Ford alt and four wire regulater.I need some advise and a diagram.I'll need a charging system for break in (fans )
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I moved the alternator to the second belt position on the crank pully. I have lots of room.
Had to make a bushing and two brackets. |
The belt position thing is an idea. It turns out I had installed the diode in the "I" wire backwards. When I restsarted the engine the volt gauge went to 16 but trimed down to 12.5 - 13V. Now the fuel level gauge pegs to empty when the ignition is on .Ive tried every possible combo. .As long as the ground is connected to the meter , power to either "I" or "S" ,gauge pegs to empty.Lead to tank is good but has no effect.Seems like I'll be buying another meter.
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I 'm concidering moving the alt out and running it on the second belt position pulley.Problem. Original harmonic balance is only a one groover.Suggestions?
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Get the crank pully first.
I have/had three. If you need one, I can check to see if I still have a couple. PM me or mail me and let me know if you want them. |
I have the OEM 427 harmonic balancer It seems to have a single grove pulley built into it. The three bolt holes for accesssory pullies ,the threads start flush It lookks like one peice .I picked up a old damper from the machinist .The two row pulley was a tight fit on the center but you could tell it was a seperate piece from the main body of the damper and had three holes but you could tell that the threads were in the damper behind it and bolted thrugh the pullies.I do not think anything on thease two dampers will mix.
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