Header and side pipe advice needed
 

I really could use some advice.

In thinking about headers and side pipes for my Kirkham, in which I’m planning to stuff a 427, I ran across some commentary that indicated stainless steel was better than mild steel, not only with regards external finish, but because headers will, over time, corrode internally and damaging iron oxide particles and flakes can be drawn into the engine on startup and shutdown. The engine I’m getting is pretty costly, and so it would seem to make sense to err on the cautious, albeit more expensive, side and get stainless headers and pipes.

I’m not sure which of the Kirkham brothers I spoke with, but whomever it was indicated to me that they don’t have a source for stainless headers and pipes.

In talking with the guy who’s building the engine, I was told to be careful with headers and pipes, as some were excessively restrictive and robbed power.

I found, on the web, a source called Stainless Works in Ohio, who quoted the headers and pipes to me that they make for the Factory Five.

So I’m asking for suggestions and/or opinions as follows:

- Is there, and what are, benefit(s) or drawbacks from stainless headers and pipes?
- If the headers, alone, are stainless, is that sufficient to avoid the “corrosion suck-up” problem, assuming that the “problem” is not just bilge?
- Does anyone have any experience with Stainless Works?
- Has anyone gotten stainless headers from other fabricators?
- Does anyone have suggestions regarding manufacturers of the least restrictive headers?
- Will headers and pipes fabricated for a Factory Five fit a Kirkham?

All suggestions appreciated

corrosion suck up ? I have never heard anybody worry about that before.

factory five headers most likely will NOT fit a Kirkham.

ceramic coated mild steel headers should fit your bill well.

Least restrictive headers, you gotta go custom and spend a pile of money. They will be tuned to your specific motor.

You are worrying about things that will have almost no impact on the amount of fun you will receive fron your car. I know you want every single HP your motor will make, but I doubt you will notice the difference of +/- 20 hp as you are spinning your rear tires hoping to finally get traction.

Specific header choice depends on how many cubic inches your motor has, rpm range you plan on being at most of the time, OR sizing the headers for top hp gains at full throttle red line.

When I built my 418 stroker I had to chuck the SPF provided headers (1 3/4 ") for custom Doug Thorley headers with 1 7/8 inch diameter pipes mated to the 12 bolt flange at the muffler. You can expect almost any muffler sidepipe on a Cobra to cut hp by about 5% on most any street motor and 10% on a full race mountain motor. Keep in mind that stainless steel headers do not perform well over the years around the welds due to constant temp fluctuatiuons. AND they radiate copious amounts of heat if left uncoated. Stick with a mild steel header with ceramic coating of your choice. Talk to Doug Thorley headers in Calif if you are thinking about a custom header. I'm surprised Kirkham didn't have some suggestions. Maybe they did, but just not for SS?

Walrus,

Please see the thread linked below on SS headers & pipes. I understand Darrell is considering and/or now fabricating these items for Kirkhams and Kirkkam bodied Shelby's.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...threadid=50309

I would get my headers from the Kirkhams;mild steel,ceramic inside and out and let them cut the sidepipe outlets for you. chuck

I agree
 

with Chuck (ENTDOC)
Let the brothers supply the pipes AND cut the holes for u...

Just checking.... Walrus=Ralph?
Shaps

Walrus-
Stainless is pretty for awhile. If the stainless used is the wrong alloy it will rust and corrode too. It also cracks if bound up in any way as it goes through heat cycles. I have a Kirkham on order, and have talked to David and Thomas about the side pipes and came to this conclusion, I'm going to use thier system and have them fit the whole deal at thier shop and send them to Jet Hot before final assembly.
Let Kirkhams fit a block in your car and cut the hole, They have been doing it for a while and know how big to make the hole for vibration and torgue. Also thier headers use a slip fit from the primary pipes to the side pipes so you don't end up with a square flange and an extra gasket to leak on you. Check out cobrarestorers.com. they have a picture of a simuliar setup. Also you will notice that the primary pipes are all separete instead of all welded to a common flange. This makes it easy to fit all the pipes into the merge collector before you tighten everything up. And as mentioned before you'll need rubber in the hangers to absorbe vibration.

Good Luck