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Need help keeping FE390 cool
I'm having a hard time trying to keep my FE390 cool. It's been running about 195 degrees with good air flow and gets up to almost 205 in stop and go traffic. Looking at the plugs, it doesn't look like it's too lean. I have a 600hp radiator, 2950cfm electric fan, high performance water pump. What else can I do?
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Whats your timing set at? Having a low initial can make them warm up quick. For a light car, usually 13-15, but no lower than 12
If not that, look for hoses collapsing, especially the lower rad hose to the pump. Finally, maybe that electric fan is only borderline, IMO you need closer to 4000 cfm to keep an FE happy in warm weather. |
OsideCobra,
Try this link, it's what I'm using. This works exceptionally well; www.evanscooling.com . Chris, slithering:cool: |
Fluids
What is your coolant mixture? Run a mixture of 15% green anti freeze and 85% deionized water. Throw in a bottle of "Water Wetter", and perhaps:
http://www.cortecvci.com/Publications/PDS/M-640.PDF Do you have an expansion tank on top? It is critical that the system has a "highest point" bleed location. Air in the system is not your friend. Having accomplished the above, I now have trouble reaching 190 in cooler weather. Regards, Zderf |
RESPONSES FOR FE390 COOLING
THANKS 427STANG,SLITHERING AND ZDERF! LOOKS LIKE I'LL BE BUSY WRENCHING THIS WEEKEND.
427STANG- THANKS FOR THE INFO. THE TIMING IS AT 12 BUT I'M GONNA BUMP IT TO 13 OR 14 AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES. SLITHERING-THE NPG COOLANT LOOKS LIKE GREAT STUFF. I'M GOING TO CONTACT EVANS FIRST THING IN THE MORNING. DOES EVANS RECOMMEND RETRO FITTING TO THEIR KIT? ZDERF- I DO HAVE AN EXPANSION TANK BUT IT'S NOT AT THE HIGHEST POINT THAT IT COULD BE. A SLIGHT MODIFICATION AND IT WILL BE THIS WEEKEND. I'M RUNNING 50/50 DI WATER AND GREEN COOLANT. I'LL TRY YOUR MIX ALONG WITH ADJUSTING THE TIMING AND IF IT STILL RUNS A LITTLE HOT I'M GONNA ADD THE NPG COOLANT. THANKS AGAIN, JOHN OsideCobra |
John,
The Evans Coolant is a waterless coolant. Being a waterless coolant, there is no byproduct of steam. Which means no pressure, this is a non-pressurized system. You cannot mix Evans with water. They are not compatible. I found them through a friend of mine and wish I would have known about them a long time ago. There are some things you'll need to upgrade, water pump, radiator cap and their flush to remove all the water in your system. This is a great system and there are several other guys using it. The other thing I really like about Evans, there's no water so there will be no rust! Enjoy... Chris, slithering :cool: |
is a edelbrock water pump ok? what rad cap is needed?thanks
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Evans System
The Evans system looks like something one would want to do from the get-go. Looking at the web site, it seems as though one must perform some equipment changes... at a minimum the cooling pump (once called water pump) and radiator cap. I wonder as well about the need to change the radiator.
Perhaps more importantly, it seems necessary to purge the remainder of the cooling system to assure ALL water is removed. Thats a tough one when the engine remains in the chassis. I don't know... but the costs to convert may outweigh the benefits if one has met the cooling requirements using conventional means. Just my thoughts... Respectfully, Zderf ;) |
What is your bore? .030?
Actually, I don't think 205 deg in traffic is too bad. Anything under 210 or 215 won't hurt you as long as you don't loose any fluid. You may want to change your thermostat to a 180 degree thermostat. I had a terrible overheating problem with my other engine and it was attributable to poor clearances and being bored .060 over as well as a few other little things :CRY: Clois |
Oside cobra couple of things first check your thermostat and make sure that is a high flow one. Try PEP boys because they have the gaskets and thermo on the islands. It should be a 63mm thermo, next look at the opening size.Even though they all say 180, they donot have the same FLOW rate. I have a 64mm that I trimmed the plate on. The flow area was almost a 1/2" larger than the correct one My motor was running at 195 with 3 fans running and 210-215F when racing. After checking the intake manifold to make sure that the coolant passages are gasket matched and the heads too I but it together and went with a 50-50% mix of green coolant and water with a bottle of water wetter to help. I have an edelbrock water pump with the March pulleys. These pulleys small the pump down 20%. Watch your pulleys. I now have my motor running at 180F normal and 195 under hard racing. Hope this helps Rick Lake
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Oside, I looked closer at your post. I'd say if rolling down the road with good airflow it stays cool, but without that airflow it warms up, it can be just one thing. Your fan isnt flowing enough air.
You can drop the cruise temp by using a 160 thermostat, but once you stop it will still climb. With my 427, I couldnt get an electric fan that would flow enough for the Mustang with a/c in the space available. I'd highly recommend you think about something closer to the 4000 cfm and even higher if you can do it. I ended up going with a big clutch fan in my Mustang, thats even with an Edel pump, 160 stat, and an AFCO alum rad. Now it stays cool as can be |
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