Opinions on 360 Value
 

I have a chance to buy a 1972 Pickup with a 360 block. It has many miles but still starts and runs OK. I do not have any need for the truck, my only interest would be in the engine if it has any value as a working FE that has never had any engine work.

Any ideas of the engine value?

Thanks,
Mike

Mike,
Normally I would say a 360 isn't worth the effort to pull out of a truck even if you got it free.
But in this day, with more parts being available than ever, maybe it is worth something.
A 360 is essentially a 390 block (4.050" bore) with a 352 crank (3.5" stroke)
The later FE blocks have been showing promise, after sonic checking, of having the ability to be bored safely to standard 428 bore (4.13") You might find one in five blocks are capable of this bore. I prefer to bore them 4.125" in order to use more commonly available rings, which are also less expensive.
A 4.125" Scat crankshaft with a 4.125 bore makes 442 cubic inches.
Add som E-brock heads and a Performer RPM cam and intake
and make around 450 hp without spending a buch of money or time.
I still wouldn't pay much for the engine though because you will end up throwing everything but the block away.
--Mike

$200-300 at best for the engine. G.

worthless 360????
 

If it is a COMPLETE running motor there are LOTS of good parts on it. For example... probably has good alternator brackets that can be blasted and painted/powdercoated, probably has an A/C compressor with brackets that could be of use to somebody, If you are not going to use a big cam, the stock rocker shafts and stands work great with new H/S rockers.. just don't do this with a .600" lift cam. If you are not interested in SFI ratings, the flywheel is probably good too (same for the bell housing). Crank keys, timing cover and pointer, balancer spacer sleeve, (and balancer too if it still has good rubber, many later truck balancers are the same as CJ balancers) head alignment dowels, cam retainer plate and bolts, crank oil slinger disc, thermostat housing, pulleys, not to mention a ton of good bolts that can all be cleaned up in a tumbler. Nice factory valve covers go for $20 and up on e-bay all the time, as do oil pans. Also you might get an old alternator and starter to turn in as cores... 360 rods are crap because they are too long. Again, if you are building a mild motor, factory head bolts will work fine - just be sure to buy proper washers if you use them with aluminum heads. Price this list of stuff at SA or Gessford and you will find out real quick that a "worthless" old 360 is actually well worth $150 and a trip to the junkyard. Plus you can always sell the rods, crank, intake and other stuff you don't use as scrap metal and get some of your money back after you strip off all the good stuff. These are very valuable tips to keeping your build cost down, but I know many people are all into the aluminum pulleys and chrome gadgets - but hey, it's really all about HP and having fun anyway.

Tell him $200 and you'll haul it away. It has no value as a performance piece.

You can have a nice running 390 all day for well under a grand. You can do a $2500 rebuild on the 390 and get 450 hp. It can't be done on a 360.

Question Answered
 

Guys,

Thanks for the time to reply. Besides all of you I have got some info from a reliable source here locally. Was not sure if I had something that might be worth my time, and found out likewise.

Regards,
Mike