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Do you trust engine lift plates?
Wondering how many of you guys use the carb flange type engine lift plate with aluminum intakes. Ever had one pull out? I know the manufacturers of the plate claim its no problem, but I can't find anything in any Edelbrock literature yea or nay. I've used them many times on other engines, mostly smallblocks though, and never had a problem. Those engines weren't quite as valuable either. Just real nervous about trusting four 5/16" bolts to support a $20K+ engine package. Any thoughts.
Brad |
I have picked up a couple of 502 Chebby motors with them on aluminum manifolds with no problem. I have also used it on my 428 that is all iron block/heads/intake with no problem.
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I've used them on my 351W several times without incident. Not sure if I'll use it for my 428, but I'm sure it would hold just fine.
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I don't use them. I prefer a tilter, especially when installing an engine and tranny at the same time, which is my preferred way of doing it.
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I used one to install my 428. Somehow I did manage to strip one of the 4 carb mounting holes which subsequently required a helicoil. I'm not sure that was the fault of the engine lift plate though. I had my manifold ceramic coated and I think some of the ceramic coating got inside the bolt hole. I suspect I cross threaded the bolt as I mounted the engine plate.
I don't recall. Are those bolts 1/4 inch or 5/16? Check out this web site. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/bolts..._strength.html If they're 1/4 inch, grade 5 doesn't this chart say they wouldn't break until you hang 15,200 lbs on them (3800X4). Of course that doesn't mean the aluminum intake manifold wouldn't strip much sooner. In any case, I think you have a pretty wide margin of error and they should be plenty safe. Chris |
Yes.
They are more than up to the task. |
2K,
Never used one, it does seem a little weak for lifting an engine over the body of a Cobra "not my Cobra, it deserves better". 4 tiny studs screwed into aluminum seems very risky, I have always thought the weakness is the small studs in that setup. give me a good ole chain and load leveler any day. GWC |
weight (passenger car motor) is non issue. Pat Buckley is right, they are more than up to the task.
I wouldn't use it for installation purposes...having a leveler is priceless. But for moving the engine from the garage to the bedroom at night, the carb flange works. Would NOT use it to install the motor... not because of load/breaking issues, just maneuverability. FWIW...HTH...FTF.... JP |
Thanks guys for your comments and opinions. I have an engine leveler and the lift plate both. Wasn't worried about the integrity of the bolts but of the studs pulling out of the manifold. Just a pain hooking up the chains and leveler every time I want to move it around. But it's probably worth the 5 min. it takes. Better safe than sorry.
Brad |
The small block crate engine that I installed specifically warned aginst using a lift plate on the aluminium manifold. Could be that they were just covering their butts from a lawsuit but I was definitely more confident with the leveler and chain approach. Especially since I installed the engine and transmission at the same time and needed a pretty severe angle to get it in.
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Every time I lift an engine with a plate, I get the 'I better do this quick before it drops' feeling.
It never has. The plate makes moving the engine easy, but I think I would use the old chain and rod method if I was fitting a motor in for the first time. Just my $0.02 |
I have the same reservations about using lift plates, but I've found that if they are used properly there shouldn't be any problem. The right way is to install all the nuts with washers and tighten them snuggly. When I say nuts, install them over studs, which is what should be used with a aluminum intakes anyway. Make sure there are plenty of threads.
Here we are lowering a Busch engine ($$$$) onto a dyno test stand using a cherry picker and lift plate. Granted, it's not as heavy as a cast-iron FE engine, but it's done with FE engines, too. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...087EngLift.JPG [IMG] |
Agree with Mr. Fixit. Use a tilter, and bolts into the opposite heads where the bolt is in shear, not tension. Not that I don't trust the studs, but the threads in the aluminum intake will strip fairly easily. If you've done it, than you've gotten away with it. Next time you might not be so lucky.
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I don't think I'll use them again.
I did this without really thinking about it and when finished the top large hole where the hook is had deformed quite a bit. And I don't think I was quite to the rated capacity of the plate. So I don't think I'll use one on an FE.
Chuck http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...738chunk2a.jpg |
Plates were meant to lift engines, but not with transmission and 4WD transfer cases attached!
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Yes but the weight is most likely the same.
I'd venture the weight of what I have there is within 100# of an iron headed FE.
I can lift the transfer case by itself, and the transmission / bell housing by itself. I admit I could have been a little heavier here but not "safety factor of a big heavy engine swinging over my fender" heavier. Chuck |
Brad,
I did not want to use carb plates on my tunnelwedge intake, so I fabricated plates that bolt to the exhaust flanges of the heads. these were used with a tilter. I had complete control of the engine. I'll try to post some pictures when I get a chance. Steve |
Yes, I trust them, however, it is hard to tilt the motor with it so I would rather use a front and rear mount with an adjustable puller.
Brent |
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