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Thermostat for 427 fe help
Hello all,
I would like to know if anybody has a part # for a thermostat for a 427 FE motor. I was thinking about putting a 160 degree thermostat. I live in miami and the temperature here does not really get too cold. Does anybody have any comments? |
Thermostat
Gessford Machine specifies a 16# Radiator Cap(31528).
:3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: |
Try the Mr. Gasket 720-4263.
In warm climates like yours, you should use the 165-180 Degree F. model. Double check with your supplier to make sure the part number I supplied above is indeed the correct one for your application. I had this part number in my notes... it may be superceeded by now. |
priobe,
Something else I found that helps with cooling my FE that might help you is a Hayden adjustable fan switch. You can adjust the temp to turn on your electric fan(s) from 35 - 260 degrees. It was an easy install and I paid $25.00 at PepBoys for it. Works great when you want to heat the motor up as well when it's cold out. I am running a 180 degree thermo in my 428. :D --Mike |
If you have the big thermostat pocket (mine was in the surge tank flange) and want the large flow a Chrysler product thermostat fits.The large thermostat that is available for Ford has a large body but the actual valve is tiny.The Chrysler (Dodge Plymouth) is the correct large body size and has a large valve like a Chevey. Works great ,you can buy the optional grades of thermostats that have the air bleeders and if it fails it will fail in the open position.My understandings is that FE's need some heat .180° sounds more in the ball park if you have a cooling system that can keep up with it
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IMO: Use a high-Flow 180 thermo, and drill a small steam hole. Fans in traffic are a must. Purified water, less anti-freeze, and Water Wetter helps during warmer months. A 160 produces causes irratic operating behavior in an FE on cooler days/evenings. Try to keep it right at 175-185 if you can. :)
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I have a question,
If I want the motor to run at 175 - 185 would it be better to run a 160 ? By the time the 160 opens and the motor has a time to level out with temperature. The motor will not run below 160. The temperatures in florida are usually hotter than cool. And when a thermostat reads 160 i.e. does this mean that this is the opening temperature not the fully opened temperature. I have been reading some FE overheat and have problems with cooling. I am trying to avoid this. Please advise |
Just do as Michael and Duane say, works for me and I drive mine haaaaaaard.
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Ok, this sounds like it has been proven time and time again.
Thank you to all I will do just that. |
Thanks for the info, Michael C Henry...I did a some further research, and came up with the following info: 1995-2000 Chrysler (Cirrus) 2.5L V6 engine Stant # 14128, Gates #33878, Beck/Arnley #1430713. I'm not disagreeing with decooney, this just gives another option. The Stant thermostats are available at the local Advance Auto, the high flow stats aren't.
Dan UPDATE: Depending on how the intake was machined, these thermostats may NOT fit. The back of the thermostat is both longer, which hits inside the intake on a Tunnel Wedge and probably some others, and the rear support structure of the stat it too large for a sidewinder and probably some others, most likely post-'67 units. Based on this info, I suggest not using these particular stats. :o |
Just a little more follow-up on this to explain my opinion on not using the 160, staying closer to the 180 degrees goal.
I ran two FE cars with 160 thermos for a couple of years. The first one had iron heads and the second had alumimum heads. After running two Cobras with FEs since 1998, I feel I have enjoyed a fair time to evaluate both and zeroing in on very slight differences. Your brain becomes tuned to the slightest changes. On the second car with aluminum heads, here I was chasing a problem that I thought was carb jetting and hearing what I thought was loose valvetrain at times. (expand contract yo-yo affect with new aluminum heads combined with solid lifters). After many adjustments and carb tuning, the real "root cause" or problem turned out to be running the engine under the proper operating temp on cooler days. At 165 and 170 it ran okay, but right at 175-180 - Wallahhhhh! After two years when I went back to the 180 thermo with the steam hole...All the sudden throttle response picked up, quicker, and you could hear a little more pop in the exhaust, with an increase in power. Try this in winter time, you'll notice a big difference. As for hot summers, see the above. Good electric Fan(s) are a must in these cars, and especially in traffic. :) |
Thanks for the advice Duane. I will order a 180 high flow from Summit.
Thanks again |
Aluminum head engines not only tolerate more heat than iron ones, they NEED more heat to work well.
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Duane is right on the money.
My 427 with aluminum Heads and intake, single 4, solid lifter, loves the 180 degree thermostat. Needs to maintain that 180-195 temp for the fuel air mix in the runners. I tried the 160 degree and my engine didn't like it. Water Wetter from Red Line Prod. is good as well as distilled water. The little hole trick works also. Good luck! |
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