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Engine Temp
I have an ERA 427 with their aluminum radiator, cast block (427CO) and aluminum heads. Running 180 degree t-stat 25% antifreeze solution.
At driving speed even on hot summer days my engine temp runs aroung 160 to 165. When you stop forward motion engine temp will climb to 180 and the fans come on. In the spring and fall when ambient temps are in the 50's the car at driving speeds runs 155 to 160. Any ideas on how to keep engine temps around 180 all the time. Does anyone else with a 427 ERA car experience this. I am sure the temp gague is correct and oil temps almost mirror the engine temps (slightly cooler). I have tried 3 t-stats with no change. |
Try blocking the air flow to the oil cooler. If that helps you may need an oil T-stat.
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Load,
Tracked this situation for many years. Exact same symptoms as you describe. My solution was a 195 deg. t'stat. [test in boiling water first!] It will maintain 190 or so when highway driven with much less range or fluctuation in water temps and it won't overheat in warm weather. Oil cooler blocking seldom works when ambient air is 50 deg or less. I've found my Mocal oil t'stat to be of little help. Have found a wide variation in gauge accuracy. Try to use a laser-type temp gun for much better accuracy and calibrate your gauge from that. |
Chas,
Thanks for the reply. I've checked my gague with a laser type gun and I have also pulled the sender form the intake and put it in a pot of water with a thermometer as a standard. I'm confident it is accurate. I'll give the higher t-stat a try. Thanks. |
I think most of us would love to have a problem like that, I know would!
Tim |
Yea, but the car runs like crap until the temp gets up to about 180. I'm guessing what is happening is the bypass is allowing enough flow to keep the engine temps below the opening temp of the thermostat. Chas's idea about a 195 t-stat soungs good but that will not really change my problem. Does everyone agree that the bypass is allowing enough flow to keep the engine temps below that of the opening temp of the t-stat? I can't figure any othe reason for this to happen. I'm gald I don't have overheat problems but performance suffers, especially with aluminum heads when engine temps are low.
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Are you absolutely sure you're putting the T=stat in correctly? I once put one in backwards on my Explorer and had a similar problem...ran very cold on the highway (pressure was pushing the T-stat open) and normal in stop and go driving...
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Load,
Don't think you want to restrict the by-pass in any way. It's not a problem for me with E'brock pump. I have your twin combination of alum. heads, same ERA alum. rad., iron SO, but 40% coolant mix. The 195 was my fix. |
Quote:
I feel the same way..... |
Chas,
I agree, blocking the bypass is not a smart thing to do. I'm going to give the 195 degree t-stat a try. It just amazes me that enough water passes thru the bypass to keep the engine under the opening temp of the t-stat. That's why I'm not totally sure the 195 t-stat will make much of a difference at driving speeds when alot of air is flowing thru the radiator. Gary PS - Yes I'm sure the t-stat is in correctly. |
Load,
I understand your doubts, I had the EXACT same fears. The proof in my case is I've driven on 38deg days on highway [after a slow warm-up to t'stat temp, gearbox and diff] and easily maintained 190 - 205. Down by the beach, at big rpm/mph - in fact the more rpm, the more stable the temp. You just have to be patient and not hit it cold. Bad news for me is oil seldom gets above 140 in those conditions in spite of blocked cooler and oil t'stat. In fact one year, I disconnected the cooler LINES, capped everything and ran oil in the motor only. Barely made a 10 - 15 deg improvement. I love 10-30 Mobil One for exactly that reason. I even drilled a 1/16 hole at the top of the 195 before installation. No problem. Good luck, keep posted. |
Thanks again for you ideas. I'm a fair weather driver so it will be several months before the weather in Baltimore gets warm enough for me to go out and try it.
Gary |
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