What should be the ideal water temps?
 

Hi I am from the uk and I have got a shelby ali 427 block stroked 484 with ali heads and 2X4 barrel carbs everything else pretty much standard. I think it is running far too hot when I get into traffic or even slow down. On a run its running about 80_85'C but in traffic it goes up past 110'C.
i have the largest surface area Ali radiator I can get in the space available W27.5" H17" D2". I am not sure its deep enough though.
I have two 16" fans one each side of the rad, both running correctly and as far as I can tell no air locks, Water wetter in there. the engine is timed correctly and not running lean.
What size rads are you running and any suggestion to what I can do to help cooling
Thanks Mark

Do you have a thermostat ? If no, the water will run thru the radiator too fast and not have enough time to cool off.

Does the thermostat open about 80º C, assuming you have one. You can check by removing it and putting it in a pan of water on the stove, and use a thermometer.

Are you running straight water? Should have some antifreeze in there to up the boiling point, just in case.

I have an SPF with a mild 351W, and the water temp is always at 80º C in normal running. It has two small puller fans with temp control and they only go on at about 85ºC.

Just drove about one mile in a 4th of July parade (you know - the celebration us Yanks have after we beat the pants off you Brits :D ). Max speed was probably 10 MPH. Temp never went over 95º C.

There is another thread on the board regarding the Fan-Man. Just read it before seeing your post. Check it out.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...threadid=65972

Hope you and all your loved ones are OK and were not in London this morning.

Cheers from across the pond

110Deg C = 230Deg F
80 Deg C = 176Deg F
85 Deg C= 185 Deg F

Mark,
Hang tuff. Those terrorist bastards won't win.

If the engine cools when you are out "scratching the hedge rows" :) then your radiator is big enough and the thermostat is doing it's job.

In you case, running hot in traffic indicates that your fan system is not moving enough air past the rad.

Would you post a picture of your setup? It sounds like a good fan shroud is in order.

Silly question here, but I have to ask it. : Is the fan on the front of the rad a "pusher" I.E. are they fighting each other?

http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm

You should optimally be around 83 degrees C while driving. It will naturally go up a bit after your stopped for a while, so when your driving you seem fine.

It is a little warm when stopped, so it's probably time for a more affective fan setup.

I think it is worth checking the fan flow directions, as it sounds like you should indeed have a pretty effective cooling setup.

As for running water vs antifreeze, running straight distilled water will run cooler than anti freeze.

Water is a more effective coolant than antifreeze. Antifreeze simply has a lower freezing point (and adds anti-corrosives).

I have been running Distilled water, Water Wetter and 15% antifreeze and my coolant temps never go over 84 degrees C while driving even in the hottest weather, and even when stopped in traffic for extended time, it never exceeds 88 degrees C.

The fans are working in correct directions, front=pusher, rear= puller, I will check on thermostat tommorrow. I think its about 50/50 water anifreeze so its it worth reducing the %age of anti freeze?
P.S. how can I compress a picture size to post it on here?

I would definately keep an eye on the "Ali" radiator :D

I'm pretty sure I read that your not suppose to run the pusher fan together with the puller fan. It disrupts the airflow and could cause overheating. Mike

Also how many P.S.I. is your radiator cap? I run a 13 P.S.I.

FWIW, I posted a couple of threads over the past few years, documenting the problems I had with my car and its overheating problem. See the thread:

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...light=radiator

I had a stroked 427/484 with aluminum heads and dual Holleys. Driving around in Arizona in the summer was more than the stock brass radiator and anti-freeze could handle. Reader's Digest version is I changed the radiator to a custom-built Griffin aluminum double-row unit, and replaced all of the anti-freeze with distilled water and two bottles of Water Wetter. Water is a better heat-transfer medium than ethylene glycol, and is only necessary if you operate in temps below freezing. I could get away with that because it seldom (?) freezes in Phoenix. Anyway, that resolved my problem; the engine would go up to about 205 deg F in slow traffic and stabilize there, and with the 180 deg thermostat would run about 185 in the clear. You might try to reduce your anti-freeze level and add some Water Wetter before attempting any expensive repairs (a custom radiator will run roughly $800). If you decide to try straight water with Water Wetter, be sure to also add a can of radiator additive to provide the anti-corrosives and lubricants which are usually included in the anti-freeze. The Water Wetter helps because it is a surficant; that is, it reduces surface tension of the water at the interface between the fluid and the water passage, and therefore reduces the formation of steam bubbles in the cooling system, principally in the cylinder heads. This keeps more fluid in contact with the metal and transfers more heat to the fluid, which can then transfer it to the radiator and air flow.

You need a bigger fan. 110 is pretty high. I get 85-90 in traffic at 100 degrees f. 80-85 on the road...

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/black-magic.html