High Riser
 

I Need an HR expert. Will a original High riser eng. fit under the hood of a High Tech Cobra ( near perfect replica of the original)
I wanted to maintain the stock appearance.
Also Is there any room for a cleanup bore after .30 over? Would say a .40 overbore cause the engine to overheat etc.?
Has anyone out there had any luck with resleeving a 427 FE? Anyone know what a quality job of resleeving would be?
Thanks I appreciate all the helpful advice I can get.

Michael:CRY:

Not an expert, but I did rebuild my 427 Side Oiler and have learned a bunch hanging out here for a couple of years.
My High Riser fits fine in my ERA and thats with TWO Holleys under the hood! I've heard Hi Tech is very very similiar in that BOTH cars closely match the originals in the body shape, size, configuration.

.030 over bore on a side oiler is MAX, IF you can even go THAT FAR! Gessford (and others) re-sleeve without any problems. Check Gessford.com web site for pricing on re-sleeve. Or just give George a call, his number is on the web site.

Thanks Ernie. The last 427 FE I had was in 1967 so this whole thing is a learning experience. When you rebuilt your sideoiler what did you set your mains and rod bearings at? Spining these bearings seems to be a plague with this engine. The guy I bought my 64 Custom from spun a bearing in it. The more things change the more they stay the same.

.0025, which I fear may be on the "tight" side, according to some. About a 1000 miles on it now and running pretty sweet!

I specifically asked the machine shop to grind my crank to the small end of the spec, make it "loose".

I have run a single 4bbl. hi-riser with no issues in both a SPF and KMP. I use the old style turkey pan and Stellings, as I have enough HP to keep me happy as is.

Toy, What is the clearance of your turkey pan / hood? Id like to build a highriser with a single 4 bbl. My High Tech Aluminum car is supposed to be near the same dimensions as the original. I dont have a mock up engine to throw in it to see and I dont want to hack up the hood to make it fit. I think most of the original manifolds will work but Ive seen a few aftermarket ones that seem to be too high for this car.
Michael

Sleeves run between $80-100 a hole depending on the shop. G.

Using the factory Hi-Riser single four intake, the carb will sit aboput 1/2" higher than using MR heads/ Sidewinder,etc. intake.

800.00 for what is essentially a new block is peanuts. Lets say youve got a 40 yr old block that has finally given up the ghost @ .30 over, other than cracks are there any other issues that cant be resolved by resleeving , bigger bearings etc? Does deck height or squareness play a big part in the longevity of a motor?
Thanks Michael

Deck height is really more a function of getting the correct compression height, valve to piston clearance and "even power" from all the cylinders issue. The block could be "tapered" from cylinder #1 being a different deck height than say cylinder #4. Unless it's "way off" I can't see how that would impact over all "reliability".

If you have the block "decked" (I would recommend it) this lowers the deck height and may well reguire custom pistons. Then again, the "stock" pistons had a spec something like .030 BELOW deck (thats a LOT) and lowering block height would have a favorable impact of increasing potential "quench" in the combustion chamber. How much deck height and how much quench to introduce? Well that's why they call it "BLUE PRINTING" your engine. Determine the specs you want and then, as the Captain says, "make it so". Don't forget to add "balance" to the whole thing.

With Kirkham sourced motor mounts I have 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance everywhere which is plenty. Sorry for the delay. It should be do-able in any authentic replica of a CSX.

Block sleeving
 

We do 8 sleeve blocks for 600.00, this includes the chrome moly HP sleeves, the boring done in our RMC 40 CNC block machining center and then we square deck the block. With our CNC machine the sleeves are put in exactly 45 degrees from the center line of the crankshaft and the camshaft so then the bore are exactly 90 degrees apart. Then since the sleeves area a little smaller than our bore size we can put the bores exactly where they should be. This means each hole is right over the center of the crankshaft and the right bore spacing apart because this is all done to the Ford Blueprint specs. Then you will need to hone with torque plates and line hone the block. Always have the sleeves installed with a full step at the bottem for best support and not to tight or they will crack the deck.
I would have the block sonic checked before I went and put 8 sleeves in. You could also hone the block to the next size and hone pistons. For example if the block is 4.262 which is roughly Ford 427 .030 over you could hone to 4.265 or 4.270 since there are rings available for this size. This would be .033 or .038 over but it does not matter as long as you can get rings and the block cleans up. You would only be taking .0015 to .004 of each side of the cylinder and I do not believe that would be enough to make run hot if it is not now. Thanks and good luck, Keith Craft

sleeves
 

nm .

Michael,

You'll discover it fits, or not, when you put the engine in the car. I have a Hi-Tech fiberglass car with a 427 side-oiler, medium rise heads. Here are my experiences.

My first intake was a Sidewinder with a Holley 750 and a Turkey pan. I had to lay a 2" x 4" piece of wood on the top of the Turkey pan and whack it with a hammer to slightly bend it's base area to get it low enough for the hood to close.

Several years later I removed the Sidewinder and changed to a Tunnel Wedge with 2 Holley 600's and a pair of S&H air filters. I had to do some grinding/contouring to the hood's oval port to get the hood to close around the S&H filters.

Regarding Ernie's comparison of ERA to Hi-Tech; a friend several miles away has an ERA with a 427. The car is about four years old and the unit number is somewhere in the middle 500's . His car has a little more vertical hood clearance than mine. Maybe 1/4 - 3/8"

Good luck.

David

David do you have any photos of your car that you could email me@ Michael4yah@msn.com Did you buy the High Tech new when the co still existed? Did you get an assembly manual with it? Im missing some suspension pieces, no interrior yet. Its a body and frame sitting on a dolly now. I located one guy ( George Petrus, Accurate machine Products) in Torrance which is not too far from me who said he could sell me what I needed but Id like to find others.
Michael

Michael,
Yes I am the original owner. I purchased it in July 1994.

I can e-mail any picture you request.

Boy didn't I need and want, but couldn't get an assembly manual. A manual didn't exist at the time I purchased, and I bet one was never produced. I don't know how much money I spent on long distance phone calls between Maryland and Arizona because of assembly questions.

Speaking of manuals, I've seen an ERA manual. It is the mother of all assembly manuals. Other replica (I have a minor problem with the word 'kit') manufacturers could/should use ERA's as the one to emulate.

Anyway, I'm happy to forward whatever I can in the way of verbal info and pictures. E-mail me at pegdave@erols.com

David

David is yours aluminum or fiberglass? July 1994! Wasnt that the year that High Tech went under? The guy I bought my body/frame/parts from was lucky to get what he got. He was carting parts out the back as the marshals were locking the front. I have some issues with the body/door openings that will need work, Ive decided to learn what I could about aluminum bodies. Id like to make some bucks off my body. Have you heard of George Petrus? He owns Accurate Machine Products in Torance Ca, He has a some parts and I hope to get him to do some of the work, I could learn alot from him but you gotta get a body in front of him! Please send the photos to Michael4yah@msn.com