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-   -   FE Bellhousing Bolt Size (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/fe-talk/68816-fe-bellhousing-bolt-size.html)

blykins 04-19-2006 06:55 PM

FE Bellhousing Bolt Size
 
I need to know what size bolts are needed for mounting the bellhousing to an FE block....

I'm trying to accumulate parts for mock-up so that I'll have them ready for when the block arrives. I'm going to buy various fasteners tomorrow and wanted to include these on the shopping list.

HSSS427 04-19-2006 07:08 PM

My Lakewood housing calls for 6 - 7/16" 14 x 1" Grade 8 Cap Screws for attachment to the block. Then of course there's the starter attachment bolts and the 1/2" bolts that clamp the engine plate and scattershield together, but you won't have those on a standard bellhouse.

lineslinger 04-19-2006 09:25 PM

I used the same size as HSSS427, but instead of bolts for the starter I used studs with threadlock, seems to make it a little easier to hang it in position and then screw the nuts on.

HSSS427 04-19-2006 10:01 PM

Yeah, studs would make the whole deal easier. I chose to drill out the starter bolt holes and ran a bolt through from the engine side and put a washer and nut on the back side. Lot easier to tighten the nut where you can get a socket on it, than trying to reach the nut head and run it into the threaded hole.

lineslinger 04-19-2006 10:08 PM

Good idea on drilling them out. I took a look at your gallery, I need to make a decision about a clutch and gerabox pretty soon. Are you happy with the tremec and Mcleod setup? Any problems matching them up to the Lakewood BH?

HSSS427 04-20-2006 07:01 AM

No problems getting the Tremec to bolt up to the Lakewood (part # 15210) or the Lakewood to the block, but need to update my gallery as I went with a Centerforce flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. However, not because of any known issue with the McLeod - just decided to install new stuff while I had it apart (expensive habit).

I also installed a short input shaft on the Tremec with the understanding I could then bolt it straight to the bellhousing without a spacer. However, upon assembly I couldn't get it to quite mate up smoothly and was worried the input shaft was going to be putting pressure on the crank by being a few fractions of an inch too long. So I ended up using a spacer between the bellhouse and tranny. Went together easily and seems to work fine, but have only had it running 2-3 days. Am still a bit worried that I might not have enough engagement of the input shaft into the pilot bearing.

The one other challenge is to check the alignment of where the mounting brace on your frame is relative to the tranny after installing a new bellhousing and tranny. The Lakewood was 1/2" shallower than the old bellhouse so it moved the mounting holes on the tail of the tranny 1/2" forward. Had to use an adapter to bolt it up - again Mike Forte had the adapter part.

I got the Tremec TKO 600 RR version and really like the gearing better than the 3550. Find myself actually using all the gears.

Hope this helps. BTW - I highly recommend Mike Forte - Forte's Parts - for help and parts. he has all the pieces and is more than happy to get on the phone and talk you through the process.


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