Club Cobra - 428 FE: Thermostat or Restrictor Plate

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428 FE: Thermostat or Restrictor Plate

Hello All:
I inquired with my engine builder about the use of a thermostat on my 428 FE. They said I had two options :
1.) Install a Stant Thermostat #13076 160 degree between surge tank and intake OR
2.) Install a restrictor plate

Here are my questions:
1.) Is one application superior to the other?
2.) Are the gaskets different between the two applications?

Car Use:
This will be a street use car only.

Thank you in advance for your replies.

Unless it's race only, use a 180 degree T-stat.

Use the t-stat. Restrictor plates have NO adjustability, and increase the chances of an engine overheating.

Use a 180 and drill a steam hole.

Kahn,

Southern Automotive sold me an expansion tank, and suggested that the restrictor would never get stuck closed. I decided to remove the restrictor, and run the 180* stat so I could be sure my aluminum block came up to temp quick, and stayed there. I had to have the tank machined to accept the t stat once the restrictor was removed, and then have the tank repaired, when the machine shop got finished with it. I have a 180* stat, with a 195* fan switch. I might even use my heater, or demister, if I ever put a top on it. :rolleyes:

Do you live in a warm climate?

For your Hurricane, I think you'll need the shortened neck on the tank.

Brad

So from sounds of it, looks like no one likes the restrictor. Was surprised that there are suggestions to modify surge tank and/or for steam. Anyone have any pictures?

I live in Jersey so I get all four seasons...hot in summer, cold in winter.

My tank did not have a recess to accept a thermostat, perhaps because the neck was reworked to shorten the height, and they figured I didn't need one with the restrictor set up. I did not know if the height of the tank would be an issue so, they sold me a shortened one, and it's a good thing, as I have less than an inch clearance.

B do you know what the height of your shrortened tank is? I have a stock oem tank and it measures 9.5" from the top of the cap lip to the very base of the thermostat flange. Is your tank shortened more than 1"? I might have a issue and would like to know the correct size for the Hurricane.

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FFR428

Hey Glenn,

The one I just installed was custom fab'd by Southern Automotive and they chopped it 1 1/2" (it was 3/4" too tall in stock form).. It still looks OEM and I'm sure it would fit the Hurricane. If you want I can get some measurements for you this evening..

Dave

Hey Dave thanks for the info!!! Hows the 482 runnin?

G.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FFR428

Hey Dave thanks for the info!!! Hows the 482 runnin?

G.

Great!! Depending on the weather, it's off to the tuner Friday or next Monday for some carb work and dyno action.. Not the first drip from anywhere.. Call Ripley's, a non dripping FE! :LOL: .....while looking for some wood to knock on...

sorry about the thread hi-jack.

Dave

Good to hear thanks for the info and update!!!!

G.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FFR428

With the cap on,... from the center of the top bolt, to the top of the cap, it is 6",... thats the best I can get with it mounted on the engine.

Brad

Regarding thermostats, cooling etc........
I went through temp issues with my FE a few years ago.

Here's what I found in trying to keep my FE cool:

The best coolant for cars is distilled water, however, straight water does not have the lubrication/protection properties of anti-freeze (tap water has minerals which can calcify and react which engine part such as aluminum) so I use a mixture of 25% anti-freeze 75% distilled water (this should work for most folks unless you drive your Cobra in the freezing cold....I'm in CA :MECOOL: )
I saw no noticeable reduction in temps using "water-wetter"
Edelbrock waterpump with it's CNC design really does work and reduced running temps by 8-10deg. The CNC machining provides a balanced flow to the heads and closer impeller to housing clearance. This reduces cavatation which induces air in the system. (air makes steam which does not cool anything)
The addition of pusher fans reduces temps by about 5deg
Anti-freeze is NOT a coolant, what it does is reduces the freeze point and raises the boiling point of water and does NOTHING to keep your engine cooler
Fan shrouds provide 8-10deg of cooling
The rating of a thermostat is the temp at which it it designed to open and maintain a MINIMUM operating temp. In WARMER climates a lower value 160deg. may be desired since this can help keep the temps lower by allowing a lower minimum operating temp. when there is sufficient airflow thru the radiator. The 160deg. provides a greater delta (difference) between minimum to a maximum temp. From "Minimum" temp on a 160deg. a 40deg rise is 200deg, a 40deg rise on a 180deg is 220deg
So my FE was running at 190-210 before I added the above mentioned coolant, Edelbrock WP, shroud, pusher fans and 160 T-stat. My average temp regardless of whether it's hot or cold outside is now about 170 on the highway. There is no one thing that is going to make an FE run cooler it's a combination of components working together.

As for the "steam hole". The hole is actually a by-pass which allows additional coolant flow. This can help with cooling as long as the hole is not to big however, restrictions in the cooling system are necessary. With to much flow in the cooling system (which can be the issue with restrictor plates) , the coolant does not have sufficient time to transfer heat via the radiator and the engine will run hotter.

hope this help some,

Mike

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burgs

With the cap on,... from the center of the top bolt, to the top of the cap, it is 6",... thats the best I can get with it mounted on the engine.

Brad

Brad thanks. Mine measures 7" at the same points. Looks like I need to shave a 1"+. Thanks.

BTW I'll post some intake measurements on the Hurricane forum....thanks for your help.

G.

khansmith First a thermostat is the way to go. I run a 180F one in Jersey. Next go to Pepboy or autozone and get a thermostat for a Dodge BB. The flow on Dodg is 30% more than the FE one. The diameter is 63 or 64 mm total If you have a grinder you need to remove 1-2 mm and if fits perfect. Drill an 1/8 hole in the housing for "AIR" to excape from the motor. Make sure you mount the hole to the top side. A 50/50 of antifreeze to distilled water work great. Use the Green stuff, not the 100,000 mile orange. Water wetter 1 bottle also. Getting all the air out of the motor will take a couple of running cycles unless you have a coolant machine with a vacuum cycle to remove most of the air. Try to run coolant hoses with wire supports inside. Piping works better with short hoses or ends. I will try and get the the right number for the thermostat from Pepboys after the holiday. There in NJ are you at? I'm in EB. Rick Lake

Hi Rick:
Thanks so much for the advice (and everyone else on the thread). In regards to the the 1/8 hole, are talking about the housing on the thermostat?

I live just North of Paramus off of Rt 17 in Ho Ho Kus

Regards,
Khan

Another Modifier joining in

Guys,
I'd like to join in on this discussion. I have a puke tank that I have dis-assembled and was waiting for my car to be delivered before I tackled this. Sounds like you're building the same thing so I could move along with you.

I have a FE block going into a Hurricane.

My tube into the tank appears that 1" can easily be cut off and allow that to be sweated back together.

Where did you plan to cut the bracketry? Are you going to try and remove the rivets and move the hole thing down or cut it in half and braze back together?

Paul