FE Oil Pan Stud Size?
 

I am going to replace the oil pan on an aluminum FE side oiler. The windage tray is a separate piece so I will have the pan, gasket, tray, gasket, block. Rather than bolts, I'd like to use at least a few studs, if not all studs. Any recommendations or tips on size, and doing all or some, standard nuts, lock washers, etc.... ??

Thanks
Brad

I did them all studs. found studs that were threaded all the way down with no middle section that did not have threads. the ones I used had a philips head cut in the top and I put them in with locktight...red I think. then just went back with gasket/windage tray/gasket/block. used nuts and lock washers. It went fine. some of the holes with be different depths on the block and it will looks like the studs are all different lengths after you put them in....kinda like a third grader measured them, but worked fine. I think in the 2 or 3 front ones where it goes through the cover (nonblock), I just used bolts. I found out some of my bolts had bottomed out and was leaving me persistant oil leaks because I had not tightened the pan up to the block well. I kept retightening the bolts, and still had leaks. Did the studs and now I know I have a seal on the pan, and no leaks again...worked great

Buzz

Stud size & Length
 

Brad,
Just purchased a Canton pan and windage tray for my FE. The studs are 5/16-18 x 1 1/4" set screws. The nuts are flange type.

I just purchased a similar setup for my valve covers. I obtained them from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com

They also have studs, similar to carburetor studs with a positive stop on them, but considerably more money than the setscrews. Plus that style stud is coarse thread on one side and fine thread on the other. Mr. Gasket, Milodon and Moroso also make a similar "carb stud" but they were steel/zinc plate. I chose to go with stainless. McMaster offers all types of materials.

I looked at the ARP ones. They are great, rounded tips for quick, no cross thread starting but they are pricey.

You only need the four corners to make it work, you could use bolts for the balance, once you get the pan and tray installed.

Regarding the different thread depths, I used some small pieces of music wire cut off and put under the stud to space it out. That way, when I ran it down, it bottomed out on the insert and the exposed portion was similar for all studs. Looks better. Also used Loctite to place the stud. Prefer the nut come off rather than the stud come out

I use a quick-start stud on the valvecovers of a dragster since we have the cover off after every run. I don't see you removing the pan that often so don't feel the quick-start type would offer any benefit, other than to the suppliers.

See you on the Hurricane board.

Paul

ps: add my compliments on your avatar (or better yet, TO the one who posed for your avatar) :D

I used a stud set I got from Canton. Red Loctite but be warned, you will have to re-torque often to keep the nuts tight. As for the difference in stud length...who's gonna see it but me? First guy I catch peering up under there, will have to have a head like a hammerhead shark and better hope I don't let him kiss the bell housing!
:mad:

Tim

55312

I use studs with Locktite in the block and "Jet Nuts" with AN washers instead of the serrated "Flange Nuts" that are typically supplied with pan sets. "Jet Nuts" are small diameter 6 point. They are a prevailing torque mechanical type locking nut that will not vibrate loose. The smaller diameter makes it a little easier to install and remove too.