Adjustable rockers with Edelbrock aluminum heads
 

OK, I plan on going with the Edelbrock aluminum heads for my build, but seen something on another forum about having to go with adjustable rocker arms, issues with pushrods etc.. I know alot of you guys here are running the same heads and was wondering about the rocker arms, and what else I would have to do?

All I know is that I have heard of issues with Fel-Pro head gaskets, some gaskets with the oil holes not lining up, and the fact that with the aluminum heads, you have to use washers under the head bolts. Can anyone shed some light on any of this so I can get a better understanding of what I need to do?

Thanks for any help!
Greg

Yes
 

blueovalfanatic Greg You can use adjustable rocker arms. You might want to look at the Erson setup. You didnot say what cam you are using? If hydro lifter, you can get away with the stock pushrods. If you go solids you would want to get a checker for the correct lenght to keep the roller rocker in the center of the valve stem top from the start of lift through max lift. This takes side load off the valve stem. For head gaskets, I use the Fel Pro 1020's. I modifiled them for all the holes to be open to the block and head. I high tac them on both sides or Indian head shelic. Tork the heads to spec, the head them for 1/2 hour back off the nuts and reset. Have not had a problem doing this. You can use bolts from ARP. I like the stud kits better. Use Anti Seize on all the threads going into the block. Put a thin coat on the washer that goes under the nut so not to damage the mounting surface on the head. Tork the head to 30lbs. and then go back in sequence and add 10 ft more to tork wrench under spec is reached. Smith brothers make custom lenght pushrods and you will have them in 48 hours. I would make sure that you use heavy duty rocker shaftsif you go with the stock system. Get aftermarket end support mounts for the shafts. I just broke a standard one at R&G, ripped the helicoil out of the head and it ate the aluminium and stuck to the valve. I have 2 dead cylinders right now. I am going to replace the helicoils in may heads with timeserts and go to a larger stud to hold the assembly to the head. I run a small cam 501-533". The Edelbrock heads have the T&D setup on them. This is alot stronger setup, more machine work, and need lifters to pump oil to the rockers. Rick Lake

With any FE intake, I would always open the pushrod tubes up, especially near the top, because in my experience there always has been several pushrods that rub the tube, and you might as well open the pushrod tubes before installing the intake, to save you from removing the intake to open them up later.

Hi Greg,
After wiping a lobe on inital startup, I decided to rebuild with as many parts from the same manufacturer as possible, theory being that the stuff would be designed from the start to work together....Stock Edelbrock heads, Performer RPM cam kit (.572 lift), Edelbrock timing set, Edelbrock 2x4 intake, carbs, air cleaners, water pump, Tee shirt, and hat :) I used the recommended ARP rocker shaft stud kit, and added fancy blue aluminum spacers and shaft stands from Precision Oil Pumps. The rockers are stock Ford adjustables, and the shafts and push rods are stock Ford too.

It all comes down to how much you are able to spend. Heavy duty shafts and aluminum rockers are on my wish list, but for now, what I have works just fine. Maybe after I get paint and carpet......

-Jon

Break in motors
 

Jon Miller John couple of things If you are breaking in the motor, REMOVE the inners for break in. It is alot easier in the valvetrain. A couple of bottles of EOS from a gm store. Heavy rocker shafts also. With that .572" lift cam you are pushing hard on the stock system. I just broke the shaft assembly with a .501-.533" hyrdo lift cam and damaged 1 head and some valves. Buy the heavy duty shafts. I thought the same way as you. There was nothing wrong with the setup or alignment. the shaft just broke at the stud mount hole. Rick Lake

Greg, I would buy the parts you need through an fe builder on this site such as Keith Kraft. You can talk to him on the phone, explain to him what you would like to use and he can give you his advise based on experience. I bought my cam, lifters and pushrods from him. He had Comp. cams grind me the solid cam to his specs and my wants and it works great. I checked the pushrod, rocker geometry and all was fine the first time.
Another suggestion, use a good rocker setup the first time, a few hundred dollars extra spent in this area is good insurance when you figure the cost of building a Cobra. I have the Erson roller set and its trouble free.

My Ersons were plug 'n play. No problems, no special adjustments, what so ever. I'm running a .650" hydraulic roller.

Dave

Sorry for the delayed response, but it seems like iv'e been at work for a solid three days. LOL Thank you for the responses, and Cobred, thats a good idea. I will call him in the next few days and throw a few questions at him.

Thanks,
Greg

I'm running factory adjustable arms on heavy duty shafts with the stud kit and the aluminum spacers and shaft supports from Precision Oil Pumps. I'm running .540/.565 lift on a hydraulic flat tappet cam, 320 lbs. open spring pressure, and hardened 7/16 pushrods. No problems whatsoever. I went with the adjustable rocker arms in case I wanted to switch to a solid lifter cam later, so I don't know how well the non-adjustable rocker arms work with the edelbrock heads. And take Anthony's advice and open up the pushrod tubes in the intake. I did a test fit with my intake and pushrods and everything in place, and had 3 pushrods rubbing on the intake. Opened up the pushrod tubes a little and all was well.

Ersons here - piece of cake.