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Retorquing Aluminum heads
I just put my 428 in my car last fall. I only ran it maybe 50 miles, and put it away for the winter. I tried to get it going this weekend, but it's running terribly. Its smoking like crazy and won't idle. I've torn the carb apart and cleaned it, so I'm pretty sure its not the carb. A friend of mine told me that maybe my heads need retorqued. I'm running the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. What I'm wondering is if it is maybe a leaking head gasket due to heads that need retorqued, is it too late for the gaskets? Will they need replaced, or could I get away with simply retorquing the heads? I'm running the metal head gaskets, not the conventional gaskets you get with most gasket kits.
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More likely its a leaking intake manifold gasket.
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I hope that's all it is. So, as somebody who's built quite a few engines, what are your thoughts on having to retorque aluminum heads? Is it a valid concern?
Another question, though off topic, will you be entering an engine in this year's Engine Master's Challenge? I was just thinking today that this year's rules would favor a 427 High Riser based engine...:cool: |
I do not believe the steel shim head gaskets are compatible with Aluminum heads. Check the Edelbrock Website for instructions on compatible gaskets. You may want to contact an FE specialist for confirmation, there are several that frequent and/or advertize here. Have you pulled and inspected the plugs? They will tell you a lot.
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Also could be your valve covers are filling up with oil if you used a h/v oil pump;)
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Re-torquing is not a bad idea - certainly won't hurt anything. My Fel-Pro buddies sold me on a "cold retorque" procedure when a regular retorque "after running" is not practical. Essentially you tighten the fasteners and leave the engine for a hour or two - then you loosen them and retighten. You always seem to get an extra couple degrees or rotation/tightness.
I have sent in an application for this year's challenge. The new rules would seem to favor smaller displacement (more efficient) engines - the Boss 302 will be hard to beat. Since I'm kinda stubborn, if accepted I'll build a 427. They want original style motors this time - so I'm thinking blue paint all over including valve covers, a dual plane intake, and cast iron manifolds :) |
Well, I think I've got a bad situation here. This whole thing stemmed from a blown power valve. I've replaced it, and the car still ran like crap. I've been through two sets of plugs now and a new set of plug wires, along with tearing the carb apart to make sure everything is clean and working properly. So, today I put a new set of plugs in it, and took the valve covers off this time to make sure that I am able to get the plug wires all the way on. Guess what I noticed? The oil sitting on top of the heads was thin as water. I stuck my finger in it and smelled it. Gas.
So, now I'm wondering if I'm in for something really bad. I've only ran the engine for maybe five minutes since all this started. I'm wondering if a simple oil change will fix it. I'd sure hate to have to pull the engine. What do you guys think? I've never dealt with this before. |
Stupdi question...what is a power valve and where is located? what is it suppose to do?
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Do you have a manual fuel pump? if yes it might be leaking.
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