Pleasure......yes, I like pleasure.:)

Small point, I did not notice being mentioned. Main reason for the gear issue is that roller cams are different steel and different manufacuting ways. I regular stock dist. gear up against a roller cam is like a stone and a diamond saw. It grinds it away in a very short time a wastes your engine with small metal grindings that go right through a filter. Like in the Ford Motorsports Cat. in the gear descriptions-via color- that is the only way to tell and you will see the light. Some cam co. are pressing on differnt gears to the cam which allow you to use the regual steel ones. I lost a brand new 347 stroker with the gear I bought and was recommended from com cams- They did say they were sorry and gave me a new cam and the right gear- I ate the motor.

Aviaid makes a good product ....but..... some things you may have to do.....

If the pump weeps between sections...... you may have to disassemble and use some clear RTV ..... light small coating between the sections to prevent it from leaking...... fairly common with Aviaid.....

The Aviaid pump will not pull a vaccum in the crankcase......yes it will suck the oil out of the oil pan with a 3 section pump..... but just doesn't have the power to pull a vaccum in the crankcase.....

Venting is most important...... you need a 1.5" vent on the oil tank ......and a 3" vent on the motor..... one dash 12 line in the crank case and one dash 12 line in the top of the motor ..... intake or valve cover going to a catch can that has a 3" opening...... only then will the motor breathe and not push any oil out of the various places .....like valve covers.... intake manifolds..... or rear main seals.....

These motor are quite large and those pistons are large and move a lot of air ...hence ....the need for a lot of breathing....

Morris

Morris, thank you. Questions.

Does the dry sump make the the breathing problem more acute than if I were to stay with wet sump? The reason I ask is that I think I had that same problem with my 540 BBC and I have a wet sump on that engine. I had to install two large K&N breathers one of each valve cover to help with the problem.

Is there a better setup than the Aviaid product?

Is the pump weeping problem due to venting or an inherent defect in the pump? Is there another pump on that market that works witht he Aviaid product and doesn't have any weeping issues?

Thank you again.

Rodknock

No...... the dry sump helps the issue of evacuating the oil out of the sump ..... and allows the oil to be picked up from a container that will not allow the oil to flow away from the pickup........

The size of the motors is the main issue.....they are just moving a lot of air volumn thru them and it takes an extra amount of breathing...... to equalize the pressure in the block.....

I'm not talking about a motor that just runs around on the street...... when you start getting the rpm's up..... the pistons just move mega amounts of air above and below them....... and this volumn of air is the reason for many of the leaks we see in many of the motors...... there's only one reason oil wants to get out of an engine....and that's pressure....... short of a mechanical failure......

The Aviaid seems to be the best pump for the FE motor ....although many other manufactures make very good dry sump pumps ....Aviaid seems to have the whole system .....and figured it out a long time ago....... plus the way the seals are made and installed in a FE motor ...you don't want a high vacumn in the motor........

The best oil pan is the Stef's....and they are expensive and will take about 6-8 months to get one....

The Weeping issue on the pump has been around for a long time and it's not just Aviaid...... the others will weep the same....... just one of those things that happens ...... we use to just disassemble them and and they are fairly easy to take apart and then wash the sections real good ....then apply a small amount of RTV (clear) around the flat surface of the section and re-assemble......

I we've been running Dry Sump systems for many years and would never go any other way..... just a good way to go and not have to be concern with race tracks or Distributers ....or any of the other associated issues.....

Morris

Morris, I looked at you picture gallery, but couldn't find a picture of your dry sump setup. Would you have one to share? Where do you have the oil tank installed?

Here's a shot of Morris' tank from the KMP Forum. Note that the fill cap is mounted through the passenger side fender (a nice touch).

http://www.kmsac.com/forum/index.php...tach=213;image

Here's the page from his thread there...other pics of the plumbing as well: Morris Build-Dry Sump

Gracias, Jamo. That's one beefy setup. Holy cow. Is there a picture available of the finished product looking from the top of the passenger side fender? maybe I missed that. Also, is there an alternative to cutting a hole in the Kirkham bodywork when installing the cannister in the engine compartment?

1. Wasn't Pat Buckleys Kirkham dry sumped?
2. Could an external belt driven pump be used with a conventional oil pan, asuming the required plumbing would have to be connected, as in other applications?

RodKnock...look around Morris' thread at that KMP site that I link. I'm sure you'll find a pic of every square inch of Morris' Cobra. I'm sure you could set it up for the fill cap to be off to the side and under the fender. Looks cool having a fill cap on the fender though IMHFO.

Rick...4pipes has Buckley's car now, albeit revised somewhat.

Dry sump Photo
 

Perhaps this will help you, it is a photo of my dry sump system. I do not have all the lines attached in the photo but the system packages with an alternator, crank fire, and power steering pump on the left side. The pan is a Stefs and the pump is Daily Engineering, it pulls about 13" of vacuum and provides about 65 lb oil pressure at 7600. Feed and return lines are #16, pressure and scavenge are #12.

Jamo, I'll look some more. I probably just missed the photo. Thanks.

Cobra #3170, great photo. It helps me visualize the system better along with the photos of Morris' car. Thank you.