Need advice 427 oil pump
 

Hello All,

I would like to find out if I have low oil pressure. I have read several posting on this site as well as others and everyone has a different answer.

From 10 psi at idle is ok to 60 psi should be the norm. **)

I would like to know a few things.

1. I connected a mechanical oil pressure gauge and used a oil pump primer with a drive and received 28 psi.

The oil pump is a Melling 57V High Volume pump.

Is this normal pressure.

Are you guys shimming the pumps. If so with what ?

2. I have also read that maybe the oil galley plug behind the timing chain cover might be missing. That this could be verified by removing the distributor and using a mirror or a wire to see if the plug is still there.

I dont see how to do this?

Here is a picture of my motor is this the hole that everyone is speaking of ?



I do not hear any noise from the lifter and everything seems to be fine.


What do you guys think? Should I replace the pump?

Spring is in the oil pump
 

Priobe The spring for pressure is in the oil pump unless you have a SO motor where it is in the block. I have a Shelby motor. I use the 100 psi spring and heavy duty drive in my motor because of the small rod bearings and depending on what clearances you run in the motor. I have .0025 on rods and .0028 on mains. On startup I pin the 100 psi gauge. I use my accusump as a peroiler so not to start the engine dry. It builds about 25-30 psi. I start the motor and let is idle until the oils warms a little and the gauge is not pinned. Mine idles between 30-40 hot at 750 rpm and runs between 65 -70 hot racing. It is a HV-HP pump from melling. I changed the spring to the pink one(100) If you go on the FE forumnyou can get more info. Everyone have there own ideas on this issue. I have never seen a motor break from running too much oil pressure. FE rod bearing are not as wide as others. This is why alot of stoker kits use BBC rods, wider, different materials, and more sizes in both under and over on bearing size. I run 15w-40 or 15w-50 oil in the car with a bottle of Lucas oil suppliment. With HP-HV you will need to keep your eye on the distributor gear for wear when running this setup. If the clearances are tighter you may not need to run 80 or 100 psi. Alot of guys are running now with 60 psi and saving HP to drive the pump. Alot depends on the engine builder who check the clearances and put the motor togeather. Rick Lake Ps I like to see 20-30 psi min at idle, I am not a big fan of the 10 pound rule for every 1000 rpm. I know nascar turn there motors at 9000 rpm and the oil pressure is only in the 60's for pressure. They also don't let those motors idle for long and the motors are for 1 race.%/

Thanks Rick Lake for the response.

I am sorry I shoould have included my set up:

1965 Side Oiler
C70E-6200 - Connecting Rod - Wider rods .080
NASCAR Crank

I am not sure if this makes a difference but here is the setup


I am debaiting if I should drop the pan and replace the pump and spring?

Just to add the 63-64 topoilers have the relief valve too. It's above the rear cam plug. Common mistake is incorrect sequence install of the spring and plunger.

Nevermind you have a 65 SO. :3DSMILE:

Priobe you have a private mail Rick

East coast
 

Proibe Phil I am on EST time. in NJ:)