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Modifyling radiator surge tank to put hose into driver side
How hard is it to do this? I see lots of these tanks for sale used, and they all seem to have the radiator hose entering the tank on the passenger side. I'll need one that enters the driver side. I've heard about modifications to change this arrangement, but don't know how to do it. What's involved? Do you simply separate the tank from the bracket and flip the tank, or do you actually remove the inlet tube, plug the old hole and drill a new one for the tube on the other side of the tank?
I'm assuming until I hear otherwise that you just flip the tank on the mounting bracket. Is the tank just soldered to the mounting bracket? I'm assuming that a radiator shop can handle this work? has anyone had it done, and do you remember what the cost was? Thanks. |
I just "bit the bullet" and bought a welded stainless tank from Southern Automotive. I have had three modified brass tanks all of which leaked. If the person knows what they're doing and use high nickle content in the solder I'm told they don't leak though.
John |
Rad surge tank
Yes, just turn the tank around - the brackets are soldered to the tank. If you are using an fe engine, the height of the tank from the stat housing to the very top of the tank has to be shortened by about 1 inch to clear the hood.That is done by shortening the neck tube on the tank.If you want pics of a finished tank let me know.
Mike. |
Mike,
If you could shoot an email picture of the completed tank to DMarotta737@Gmail.com, that would be great. Thanks. Doug |
Its a fairly straight forward process. You have to heat the main inlet feed at the bottom of the tank to break the solder joint there and heat the bracket flange on the backside of the mounting bracket. Once the solder starts to flow it all comes loose pretty easily. Clean it. flip it and resolder. I had to fab a spacer to keep the tank from banging into the distributor.
Before rotation on bracket http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...94109_0981.JPG spacer http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/143_4321.JPG |
You could order a billet tank from Kirkham and not have to worry about solder joints leaking.
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767Jockey
Yes, it's as simple as turning the tank around and re-soldering. Be sure to have the radiator shop split the top tank, too, as just turning the tank around around will put the cap on the wrong side. You should turn just the bottom half of the tank around. I didn't have to shorten mine. Works fine as is on my csx4000. Your chassis may differ. Cost was $10 for the tank at a swap meet and $75 to resolder and pressure test. |
That's good info, Doug - thanks!
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I have had a couple of these done . I think one key is a good solid tank with out numerous previous repairs. I suppose the brass fatigues after being heated numerous times. The first one I had done leaked twice.The last talk was an old take off and so far has been trouble free. I couldnt stomach the cost of a stainless and truthfully don't like the look,then again it would be hard to spray paint a 400 dollar part.
One other thing is if you look around some of the tanks have the filler cap on opposite sides.if you find one with a rear filler cap when it is turned around will be just right for your car. Have the repair shop not paint it so you can use duplicolor gloss black engine paint. Also don't powder coat as it will bead the solder. A stock tank cleared my csx4000 nicely as well. good luck,Tim |
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