Club Cobra - Keith Craft silicone art

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If I remove the intake to drill out the breather hole on the back of the Performer RPM intake, what are some things I need to be aware of? I really hate to pull the intake because everything is perfect right now, but I want to go with the oil overflow tank as per original (CSX3020).

Also:
Is the black silicone that is so artfully applied around the intake applied before or after the intake is bolted down ?

It is put on the intake and the block before bolting it down........you better get some help....:) it is not going to come off easy........

It's more about letting silicone Properly setup

Hi-tech cobra Getting 2 people to set the manifold on the motor and center it is important. IMO letting the silicone setup for a couple of minutes and skin a little. The rest is about giving the silicone 24 hours to set. DON'T add any fluids to the motor like COOLANT until the 24 hours is passed. I have tryed to run the motor or a minute to build a little heat in the block and help cure the silicone faster but have found out that sometimes you get a leak, and sometimes not. Make sure the surfaces are clean and dry. Good luck. Rick Ps don't be in a hurry on this job and make the silicone about 3/8" high line. After it's fully set you can shave off the extra with a razor to cleanup the look. Put a thin coating around both sides of the coolant passages on the intake gaskets. Same let it setup for a couple of minutes before installing. Tork to spec, but start with 10 pounds, do all the bolts, then 20 pounds until you hit spec. Follow the tightening order of the bolts, going from side to side working from the middle out. This keeps the clamping force even across the whole manifold.

In talking to Keith's chief engine builder they do not use a torque wrench on the intake manifolds of the FEs they build. The "snug to feel" incrementally as they go around the intake in the proper sequence. They have found that with the aluminum heads that the intake bolts are prone to pulling out the threads in the heads if you torque to specs without developing a "feel" for what you're doing. I used the same methodology on mine and it worked fine. I've re-snugged a half dozen times since the intake went on with zero oil, water or vacuum leaks.

I dont want to rain on a fellow owners parade, but wouldn't it be possible to 'dummy' the puke tank until a true need arises to pull the intake? They are a PITA to seal and it seems like a lot of chance for little reward, but I also know what happens when you get the 'fever' to build and the wild hairs start growing...:p

How the weather Undy

Undy If you pull out a helicoil, snap a bolt or stud, rip the threads out of an aluminium head, there is going to be a problem down the road anyway. There is no way you should hurt or damage anything with the way I described above about taking torque readings down in 10 pound increments. I would also put either a lite coating of oil on the threads going into aluminium. Antiseize is another good product but throws off the torque readings a couple of pounds. I am not going to argue on ways people assembly motors, but know from not doing it right that warping on parts happens and leaks will show over time. %/ How the weather on VA beach? It must be almost swim time. Boy I missed that beach in the summer. :rolleyes: Rick L.

I have seen KCs engines on the stands and the silicone bead they have all around the heads, ends of the intake and oil pan are really works of art. How do they do that? Mine are always kinda smeared looking.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE (Post 831738)

I went a made a stud kit since no one makes one for a FE. The "advertised" FE intake bolt kits seem to come up a bit short, length wise of the bolts, hence the studs to grab every available thread. I anti-seized the bolts too. As I recall, the spec is around 35 ft lbs on the intake. That, coupled with the too short bolts, were recipes for disaster. No problems with the studs since I take advantage of the entire depth of the hole. I used some hi-grade stainless steel all-thread that I got hold of to make them. With the studs I was successful in doing a correct torque job with never a hint of any threads letting go. I simply go around it with a box wrench every so often with the heat cycles. As long as you keep the gasket loaded you won't see any creep.

We've got a car show coming up on the boardwalk here in a week or two. I've got the Cobra registered. The very fine looking young Russian ladies will start showing up shortly:eek: dressed in the appropriate beach garb. Ah.... those long hot summer nights..**)

Undy You lucky man, put up some pictures from the show.:DJust be careful if the wife or girl friend is behind you.:eek::rolleyes:;):LOL::LOL: Rick L. Ps I am installing all timecerts in my new motor and removing the helicoils. IMO the certs are better and stake themselves into the bores and don't come loose. I have had to drill one out on another motor. I used a left threaded drill bit.%/ What a pain.