My QT is twice the BH the lakewood will ever be especially when all the cool guys cut the bottoms off the LW anyway so they can drive on the street. The sticker doesn't svae your life or limbs you and your judgment did when you bought a quality piece of equipment-which you did.
BTW I had one of the very first ones and it indexed out fine-.004 off I left it alone.

Actually the Lakewood is a hydro-formed bellhousing not stamped That's why it's stronger than any spun item.

Considering the newer alloys as opposed to the 60's nodular iron stuff the chances of a flywheel explosion is pretty slim. The Lakewood came from this enviroment and has save many legs over the years. Heavy? Yes. Worth the extra 30lbs.? Well to me yes.

As far as tech goes any welding / cutting viods the SFI rating, so unless you use a bolt-on mount or the McLeod throw-out your not meeting requirements. You can always use the kevlar blanket if you wish.

I think your fairly safe with either and a modern flywheel / clutch... Certainly when compaired to a factory cast aluminum BH which was all you had before Lakewood came along.

Indexing should always be done as it's a matter of variances in both the BH and the block (especially if it's been line honed / rebuilt). You have no way of knowing if the centerline of the crank is where it should be.

To quote Mr Reagan "trust, but verify". ;)

Dang Rick, you're like Rocky Balboa -- you keep taking it on the chin and just keep coming back, and back again -- thread after thread. I wouldn't want to mess with you in the ring....:)

i have a QT BH. on a 427 fe with the Mcleod hyd. throwout. works awesome. only had .002 runout. tko600 shifts fine. i got the whole setup from bruce at modern driveline. very happy.

Not a chance
 

xracerbob. Not a chance. There is a reason that NHRA and some other Racing programs do not allow this bell housing. It is not certified. Lakewood keeps the parts inside period. I didnot cut the bottom of my bell housing in my cobra. 4 1/4" is enough to clear any autocross, or roadtrack. My street have high man hole covers ,I just drive around them. QT is for dirttrack and some cars running multi clutches with SMALL discs,6-8" not the big 40 lb iron flywheels with 11.5 assemblies. I have Lakewoods on 4 of my jeeps and cars. Saving 20 lbs off your car is about going .0005 second faster. If your legs and feet are worth that, Fine. I'm sure you could talk to any military soldier back from overseas that got hit with an IUD mine and lost legs mine have a different opinion about how much his legs are worth and walking and playing with his kids. I have seen these guys first hand in the hospitals. Its Your car, your money, your safety. 30+ year of racing, I have seen more accidents and blown parts than almost anyone on this forum. To date no lakewood has not allowed a blown clutch to come out through the bellhousing itself that was certified and kept up to code from structurial design failure. You do it your way, I will do it a different and safer way. Rick L.

Poor info from saleman
 

patrickt Pat the old line been there, done that, and done it the hard way. I have covered it all. If you are running a mini multi disc clutch, this bell housing "may" protect and hold up fine. A full size 40 lb fly wheel clutch assembly is another thing. QT is tested but not certified, WHY?:confused: They sell 2 bellhousing for the FE motor, one says nothing in the info about SFI testing at all. The other says has SFI testing. Did not say if it passed or failed. There is a 99% chance that these guys will never race or spin there motors 7,500 rpm and have a flywheel schatter. Again 95% of the guys are running SFI flywheels. I don't want holes in my bellhousing. I want everything to stay in the tub. I blew 1 clutch disc and it came through and crack the stock bellhousing,(aluminium) after this everything I have is lakewood. $400.00 dollars with worth walking and running on my own to feet. They sell shields for auto transmissions and blankets for racing. I have seen a 200R-4 explode and the blanket saved the driver's legs. There are lucky people and people without, I am the later, but have learned that by buying the best parts on the market for racing have limited the chance if injury to myself. Everything on my car is SFI CERTIFIED, I have no interest in tested Rick L.

FWIW, I run a Lakewood on my FE with the Centerforce clutch and aluminum flywheel....;)

I've a Lakewood on my 482 too. It was only out 0.003" when I dialed it in so It needed no more work. I didn't cut my flange off either as I've plenty of clearance with it in place.

Dave

Rick, if you have 4.5 inches under your lakewood then that would make your frame at about 6.5 to 7.0 inches. You probably should worry just alittle more about setup at this time? Don't ya think?
You are not the only guy that has been around the block. You ought to drive my car with the "stupid" camshaft and not enough compression-hope you like "crow"!

BB, you're not working/playing well with others.:rolleyes: ERAs need the trimming at the bottom, and I can't believe it lessens the integrity of the bellhousing in the least. Here's a couple of shots of mine so you can see what I mean:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...wood_trim1.JPG

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...wood_trim2.JPG

The only thing you lose is the SFI rating when you cut it.

I just put this sticker on it. ;) http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/...ve1/10_6_8.gif

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../certified.jpg

I'm back!!!!!
 

Here we go again on the merry go round.**)This is straight from the horse's mouth. Lake wood has 1 bellhousing #15210. It is certified with a 6.1 rating. It's approved for "ALL" racing sanction bodies. Quicktime, this is right out of there catalog, #RM 6056, FE to a TKO500-600, passed test but not certified. #RM6057, FE motor to a Toploader trans, nothing on testing or cert. #RM 6058 FE to ZF trans, passed test not certified. #RM 8040 FE to a T56 trans, tested and certified to 6.1. One out of 4 is certified. Big Boss I have a car that is fast enough with stupid speed and power. There are things you can do to a car like drop spindles or different control arms with off sets. If you want to test your car and driving, come on out to the Run&Gun. I run BB street class. This class is for tires with a 220 or higher rating. No power adders. Might even do a side bet with you, You drive yours and I will drive mine. We can autocross, roadrace, and dragrace. I will run the 482 motor. this should keep us with the same cubes? I like a good beating, :CRY: and can give ones too.:rolleyes:;):) Rick L.

Guys this is straight from Quicktimes website.

RM-6056 - Big Block Ford Bellhousing to TKO 500-600/T5 Mustang/TR3550 transmission

Height = 7.050"
Trans. Bore Ø = Universal 4.850/4.910
Engine = Ford 352/390/427/428
Trans. = Universal TKO 500-600/T5 Mustang/TR3550
Clutch Ø = 11.5"
Flywheel = 184 tooth
Weight = 22#
Universal shifter fork brackets for diaphragm or cable operated linkage
Has passed ALL SFI testing
Pivot ball, fork brackets, FULL engine plate and grade 8 bolts included

I have talked with Ross at Quicktime guys the main reason this particular bell housing does not have the certification is simple. It is mostly used in the Cobra market and the bottom lip is trimmed to allow for clearance issues. Ross also confirmed with me that the bell housing passed ALL explosion tests, so there is no need to worry about your legs. jimig@standardtransmission.com

Jimi, how can it be 25 lbs. lighter than my Lakewood and still be just as stong?:confused:

Just to clear up previous posts regarding the QuickTime bellhousings: The reason we do not have some FE bellhousings available yet in the SFI version is economics and volume. Originally the FE housing was developed for street applications where the SFI certification was not required and ground clearance was the main criteria. The issue with making our models of the FE housing SFI certified is that most of our original requests did not need it and they did not want to have the ground clearance issues with the lower lip required by SFI. The housing design as is has passed the 29# flywheel exploding @ 10,000 RPM test and is safe as is. To add the lower lip would require the end users who need the clearance to cut the lower lip which would void any certification. The cost difference is also an issue which would be approx $40 additional. At the time it did not make sense to penalize the majority of the people for adding the additional material, bolts, and testing every 2 years on our part. There is not enough volume in the FE models at this time to have both SFI and non-SFI versions available, which we have done on the SBF's (RM-6060 and the RM-6065) (RM-6080 and the RM-6081)which are the same housings-one has the lower lip and 8 3/8" grade 8 bolts/full engine plate and the other does not. In this case they are both high volume items and warrant 2 seperate models. We may change our thinking at some point and either offer only the SFI model in the FE's or add seperate models. The FE to a T56 currently is SFI certified, our logic was that a transmission capable of the horse power rating will probably be raced so we built it to SFI specifications from the start.

Our housings are spun and work harden to over 85,000 psi, more than twice the strength of any other steel housing available.

As far as the accuracy, the QuickTime bellhousings are drilled both on the engine flange and trani flange in one setup on a 3 axis machine center. We can typically hold machine tolerances of .001. The accuracy of the block that our housing is bolted to is out of our control.

Thanks for all of the interest in QuickTime bellhousing
Ross McCombs
President
QuickTime 4-22-08

Take a look at Ross's post above and you will see why they are lighter and stronger.

Yes, I read that. So you would now give the nod to QT over Lakewood?

Ross,
Thanks for the post. This clears up my main concern - safety.
It is a well made piece. It's nice to finally have a legitimate alternative to LW. :)

Thanks for posting Ross. I have your FE housing and was happy to not have to trim it.