Sounds like some thought was put into the Shelby Block improvements!

Thanks for the additional information.

Mike

If your not going NASCAR racing or trying to get 1,500 horse out of it where the stud bolt holes end makes little or no difference. Which could also be said about a myriad of other details as it concerns one block over another.

Side oilers, for instance, are an improvement over the center oilers. But even THAT doesn't matter unless your pushing 6500-7000 rpm in drag race, or running Le Mans.

There is 'strong' and then there is 'over kill', just depends on how your going to build your motor.

Robert Pond block
 

The Pond block is a very robust block and much improved from the originals retaining the side oiler mains priority oiling and OEM appearance. The weak links have all been addressed.

The block is web reinforced in the lifter valley to provide a continuous bulkhead at each main bearing.
The cylinders are siamesed to match the valley webbing.
The head bolts are further down into the block than OEM (takes a longer stud)
The cross bolted mains are a doweled press fit full depth into the block skirt (No spacers)
The stock starter will fit.

All in all a very nice part...

I too was very pleased with my 482" Pond short block assy I received from Keith. What really grabbed my attention was the thick walled silicone bronze lifter bore sleeves. The precise honing and "text book" cross-hatch was a thing of beauty. All in all it cascaded me into a terminal fit of motorhead woodiedom..:D

Dave

Hello All,

Thank you for your comments, I was discounting the the pond block a bit too much in my research and won't do so after reading you comments.

Kind Regards,
Mike

How hard are you going to be on the car?
 

Cobra Mike I have 2 shelby blocks, CSX58 and CSX428. I got my Shelby blocks before Ponds and Genesis where maken them. We know the story with the Dove motors.%/ There are Shelby blocks maken over 2,000 HP at this time. The ponds block is the correct look for a cobra. Safe power it handles will be in the 800hp range. Very few of us are looking for this much power. Except for the oiling differents between the 2 and no date code on the shelby block, I would still take the shebly for the $1,000.00 more price tag. Here's why. The heads are held in place with studs that pull from the mains of the block not the cylinder walls. This stops any out of round of the cylinders and lose of compression over a long time of running. 4 bolts, 2 per side and to main studs hold the middle 3 caps in place. There is no cap walking in this block. Unless you are turning 7,500 rpms or higher the side oiler system IMO doesn't matter if you have a good machinist clean out all the oil galleys. Limiters to the heads of in the .070" - .090" orifaces to controll and keep more oil in the bottom end. A HVHP oil pump for good pressure, ( 70-85 psi hot ) at 2,500 rpms. A peroiler IMO a must to add to the car. The only down side I found on a Shelby block is the helicoils they use, I have removed all the helicoils in my block and gone to timeserts. I like to have a steel to steel material. For racing IMO this is better than helicoils in aluminium. I don't have a lot of info on the ponds blocks, KCR and Gessford Machine would be the ones to talk to. Which ever motor you go with, remember that it is ONLY going to run as well as the parts are matched to all work in the same rpm range and the machinist has good eyes and takes PRIDE in his work. :) The power for your motor is in the intake,heads, exhaust and putting the right cam in the motor. You may want to go with Ponds and buy the best set of heads from KCR for the price different saved between blocks. Also look at his hydro roller cam shafts. Build a torque motor and don't get catch up in the HP game. If you are racing go HP. A 482-527 FE is alot of motor. Limit the rpms to 6,200 for a big stroker and you will have many years of great power and durability.:MECOOL: Rick L

Partly necessary due to Al vs CI.