Alum. Intake and oil filter adapter part installation ?'s
 

I'm installing some parts on my 428 FE and am following Steve Christ's book which has been excellent.

This is the first time doing this. I had someone do the shortblock and machine work.

I have two quick questions I want to double check.

When installing the intake he says to torque to 32-35...I have an aluminum intake..these numbers still valid?

Also, on the oil filter adapter he says to lightly coat the OFA side but to leave the block side of the gasket dry. Just wondering why you would do this.

Thanks in advance.

I torqued my Blue Thunder IM to 32 ft/lbs. The instructions for the Edelbrock aluminum IM, as I recall, call for something like 25 ft/lbs.

patrickt:

Thanks for the info.

I checked out your pics and alot of your pics where of things I had questions on.

I have two questions about your pics.

I see you have built some wood blocks to higher the car. Is that so you could get the jack out? I assume you staggered them on the other side so you can drive off?

Also, the slave for the clutch. Install looks straight forward but I'm a little unclear on the install of the pear shaped ball and rod. one end of the rod is threaded, the other has a smooth convex end which I believe goes into the boot, the ball fits into the female part of the clutch fork and the screw that comes with the setup from ERA get tighted against the other side of the clutch fork? Is this correct. My boot seems very loose and the rod is not tight when it is installed. Did you have to tie wrap the boot to make it dust free?

Also, did you put any sealer on the IM bolts?

No, that is not so I can drive off them. I use a low profile aluminum jack to lift the car up then I put three or four 2x12's under both sides of the car. The 2x12's are nailed together in lots of three with a couple of extra singles. Three tends to do well for simple chores like changing the oil or adjusting the clutch. But for some reason on that pic I put an extra fourth on under one wheel but not the other. I wanted something that was absolutely collapse-proof, and that does the trick -- just make sure you chock your wheels.

The rod that comes out of the boot is threaded so that you can use the brass fitting to adjust the distance between the clutch fork and the fitting and then lock the fitting with the silver nut. What you don't see in my gallery shot is that my clutch fork has a hole drilled in it so that the threaded rod passes through the fork and has another nut on the end of it behind the clutch fork (see better shot below). Drilling your clutch fork does two things: 1) It makes it easier to adjust the distance because your clutch rod can go as far through the fork as needed; and 2) Having a nut behind the fork prevents the rod and fitting from "popping out of the fork" and leaving you stranded. Your clutch fork is a pretty tough piece of metal, so you really need to drill it on your bench -- wiggling under the car with your battery powered Makita is going to be a darn tough job. If your boot is loose around the slave, putting a zip tie around it to snug it up wouldn't hurt.

Yes, put some goo on the bolts.


http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...lutch_fork.jpg