Cam for 462" FE
 

I'm thinking about this puppy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMP-...Q5fAccessories

My combo is 428 PI block +30, Scat stroker crank/rods, Edlebrock 427 heads w/ 2.19/1.71 valves, Probe pistons/10.6 cr, and a PI intake (lusting after Dynamic FI though:D). Any thoughts on this combo?

Steve

A bit tame.. 500 to 525 hp with your combo. I would contact Keith for a Comp Cams custom grind, just right for your setup and goals. A cam would be the last thing that I'd try to save money on.. just my thoughts.

Whether you like it will depend on what you want out of your engine.
If you want an engine that has a nice lope at idle, will run smoothly at lower rpm and still make tons of hp and torque in the normal street driven rpm range- like 2200 to about 5800, I think you will be very happy with that cam. I put a similar custom ground Crane hyd roller in my 472" FE (specs on my cam are 228/234 and lift in the .580/.590 range (can't remember exact lift numbers, can check later if you want) with a 112 lsa), and could not be happier. The engine idles nicely at about 850 rpm with about 14" of vacuum and has a great lope. And it has very nice street manners- you can cruise in 4th or 5th at 2000 rpm or so without any lugging at all, but when you downshift and hit the gas, it pulls like a freight train, plants you in your seat and will break the tires loose with ease. That's my .o2 :)

ditto on contacting keith craft for a cam, things such as valve springs and block relief for the valves must be taken into consideration before jumping into a camshaft. the 428 block must have proper deck\bore relief for the 427 valves and going to another cam without checking could ruin your day. doesn't hurt to check first.


Fred

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see the LSA. I would want 112 for that stroker. Depending on what you want from the car, the cam is going to tame for the desired compression ratio and 462ci. Personally, I would want to be AT LEAST in the 240-250 range for duration and .625-.650 for lift. However, it's your car and engine.

Also, just for posterity, I think you meant Dynatek FI, not Dynamic FI.

Steve, I agree with all above. A monster FE needs to breathe in & exhale to realize it's full potential. A more aggressive bumpstick would be my choice with more duration & lift. Valves, relief, clearances, etc are all issues to take under consideration. Keith or Barry can help you, or Pops Performance. I have had Pops build my monster FEs in the past & he's currently working on a Hampton blown 542 FE (Genesis Block) for me that should be ready soon. I'll get pictures on my gallery soon as I can. Have fun with your build!

Regards,

Not bad really. Maybe a touch small on duration - but a good pick if you're gonna keep the freeway cruise speeds under 2800RPM. I normally go bigger - but I do that with everything. If Webers or IR EFI are in your future the mild pick is the better way to go.

The price is pretty much normal - I suspect that any of the regular contributors to the tech on the forum can get you there....with more options.

that cam is pretty close to what i received from kc for my 445 fe stroker.
mine is .598-.618 lift duration 230-238 at .050 and a 112 lobe seperation.
could someone estimate what i would make for power?. 390 block .030 diamod dished pistons, 4.25 steel crank, eagle 6.7 h beam rods, edelbrock stage 1 heads from kc 2.09 intake valve mass flo fuel inj with a edelbrock 427 efi singlr plane manifold 42 pound injectors 4into4 headers, hydraulic roller cam crane t bar roller lifters erson rockers, smith bros puhrods.

pretty close to a hydraulic roller that comp ground for me. 232, 244 w/.610 and .626 on 112 ls. Idles well, 5th gear at 1200rpm is smooth yet comes on hard at about 3000 and 1st two gears are near useless because of tire spin. Your proposed grind looks similar. Would expect similar results, but then buying a cam because it was on sale is not what I'd do.

Guys thanks for the responses. Most of what was said here was already on my mind but I do appreciate the expertise shared. For those that suggested calling KCR; I did but the person that I got on the phone was rather busy and I got kind of blown off. Before I do buy you can bet that I'll be doing some more looking.

Undy; just over 500 is what I was figuring as well and in a Cobra that aught to be fine to start off with. Right now I have about the same HP in a car that weighs 3500# and 16" more wheel base. I think my learning curve is going to be vertical for a while anyway.:D

FWB; we covered the valve/block clearance issues adnausium in an earlier thread before I bought the stroker kit, then the machinist checked when the block was machined and of course I'll recheck during final assembly.

RK; you're right it is Dynatek. I don't even know why I typed that.:JEKYLHYDE

Barry; thanks for the guidance, it's much appreciated.

Don and Undy; I don't know about you guys, but almost $800 for a cam and lifters doesn't seem like bargin hunting to me. I picked this example off of ebay simply because it included the price for both, along with most of the specs that I'm leaning toward. That made it an easy example.

Previous to this build my largest has been the 372" clevor in my Boss 302. After dealing with small block cam figures for so long I'm trying to get my head wrapped around what an engine with almost 100 ci more than that is going to need. Hence my questions. Feel free to keep'em coming guys.

Steve

Camshafts
 

This camshaft would work pretty good for you depending on how you want the car to sound and what power you are looking for.
The funny thing about these camshafts is that Comp Cams did not have hydraulic roller camshafts listed till we started ordering them and helped them with what was needed. You have to be careful on what lobe is used because there are some that will float the valves at 5400 rpms because they are to radical for the heavier valves that the FE heads have.
Give me a call and I will be glad to help you get a camshaft and lifter package for 750.00 from Comp Cams. I will have it custom ground for your application and we can recommend the right spring pressures and pushrods for you as well. The hydraulic roller takes a special length pushrod that we have Smith Brothers make for us. Just let us know if we can help.

Thanks, Keith Craft

Man I love this forum! Thanks Keith.

You don't necessarily have to stay on the "small" side if you plan to go with a Dynatek setup in the future. I know Tom in SoCal and I are considering the Dynatek setup and Dynatek has already confirmed that our cams would work fine. We're both in the 245-255 duration range and up to .625-.650-ish on the lift.

Thanks RK.

I like the small hydro rollers
 

lovehamr Steve I am running the small crane hydro roller, 587-607". In my 482 it makes over 500 HP and Torque. I have mine setup for more torque that HP The cam is retarted 4 degrees. I have killed some of the top end HP for the off idle torque. The pilot 335/35-17" are no match for the motor now. I am going to advance the cam 2 degrees to kill a little of the bottom end torque. There has to be a happy middle ground. The 3.31 gearing is also some of the problem.:eek:%/ It's a good problem.:) Kieth Craft also makes some custom hydro rollers for your motor. I have one of his .622" hydro rollers for my 498 I am working on. The vacuum on the 482 is steady at 14-15 psi. This is a small cam for this size motor. It has very little lope. Chaplin has the same cam in his car and it sound a little more nasty. Smaller cubic motor. Kieth would be a good place to start with a camshaft. You need to tell him the specs on the motor and WHAT you are going to do with the car. Show and shine, street cruise, autocross and roadracing, or 1/4 mile drag racing. Cruising the car doesn't need or want the same camshaft as racing. Bigger is not always better in some cases.%/ ;):) Rick L.