PANAVIA -- Why don't you get quotes for a completed budget short block 390 or 428 from Barry, Keith, et. al. and then you do the rest? If you're not comfortable with that, move it up to a long block. I personally prefer a solid cam, but a hydraulic is safer and easier to break in. Don't go with a "budget FE builder," only go with a recognized FE expert. Right now the economic times might just play in your favor if you find the right builder who will ease back a bit on his labor rates and build it for durability as opposed to ridiculous horsepower. Just keep in mind the FE mantra: Some things are better the second time around; rebuilding your FE ain't one of them. :cool:

Try this one
 

Patrick,
I was faced with a similar choice. I ended up with a bored/stroked 390, internally balanced, Edelbrock heads, Crane Hyd. Roller cam.

Very happy with the choice. My only regret is I didn't use a cross-drilled block. Not for strength but for appearance.

Take a look at http://webrodder.com/. Search their articles for "fe ford" There are some very good articles on building FE motors

Paul

I still have my spreadsheet on my build. 68' SO block, 428 crank, H beam rods, Alum. heads and intake etc. etc.
Would be happy to send a copy of it if interested.

Use this as a Benchmark
 

$11,899 -- http://www.keithcraft.com/engines/39...te_Engine.html

390 FE Street Crate Engine

Horsepower: 525hp

Torque: 550ft/lbs
Block: Fully machined and Prepped Production Block
Crankshaft: Scat or Eagle Cast Steel
Stroke: 4.250”
Connecting Rods: Scat I-Beam 6.700"
Pistons: Diamond or Mahle Forged
Timing_Chain: Ford Racing Double Roller
Camshaft: Comp Cams Custom Grind Hyd Roller
Lifters: Crane Hyd Roller
Cylinder_Heads: CNC Edelbrock Stage II
Valves: 2.09/1.75
Rocker_Arms: Earson Shaft Mount
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM

Waterpump: Edelbrock Aluminum
Carburetor: Quick Fuel 750cfm Vacuum Sec. / Elec. Choke
Valve Covers: Keith Craft Logo w/Breathers and PCV
Wire Looms: Smoothie
Oil Pump: Melling High Volume
Oil Pan: Moroso or Canton
Balancer: Professional Products
Ignition: MSD Distributor w/Keith Craft Logo Moroso Plug Wires
Gaskets: Felpro
Fasteners: ARP
Compression: 10.51
Fuel: Premium Unleaded Only
Firing Order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Timing: 39 Degrees @ Full Advance
Oil: 10w-30 or 40 non-synthetic for break in.
Max RPM: 6200
Dyno: Complete test and tune on SF902 Dyno
Price: $11,899.00

What are you going to do with the car??
 

PANAVIA Steve what are you looking for??:confused:For get the bench racing. The 390 block with a 428 crank will give you a nice 410 stroker with alot of torque. What compression are you looking at? The easiest way for you to build this motor is to MATCH the parts. Get a cast 10-10 428 crank. Get a set of eagle rods. They are better and lighter than the stock FE rods depending on which ones you have. Money wise it might be smarter to go with a 4.25 crank kit from Barry R at survival Have them balance the rotating assembly. Next Call Keith at KCR and get a set of stage 2 Edelbrock heads. Get Keith to sell you a custom roller camshaft to match the heads and cubic inches of the motor. Send the intake out to Joe Craine and have the manifold ports balanced and gasket match to the heads. Carb is your choice. Start with a 650 double pumper. This will more than cover the cfms of the motor. Oil pan, Canton with windage tray. ( tray may need to be trimmed to clear the stroker crank) Get a HPHV oil pump and harden shaft. You want the oil pressure to be 65-75 psi hot and 35-40 at idle hot. This motor has a heavy bottom end and needs higher pressures to float the crank and rods off the bearings. I had 8 years of racing my 452 motor and no problem with the bottom end bearings. I went to a bigger stroker kit. This will give you about 430hp and about 480 of torque. You should be able to bring the total cost with block machine work in at about$ 8,000K The motor will last for years and give good performance. RPM rev limit 6,000. Limiters in the heads of .090" for oil control. You may want to ask Keith about beehive spring for your motor. Keep the cam at .600" total lift or less and the LSA at 112 or 114. You didn't say if you where going to put the motor together yourself? You will need a couple of special tools. Torque wrench, Rod bolt stretch gauge, ring file for the piston rings, plastic gauge for micking the bearings. If the funds have an extra $350.00 get an accusump for the car. This acts as a peroiler befor you start and run the motor. 70-80% of motor wear is from startup. Having 20-30 psi before start will extend the life of the motor 2 fold. This is not bench racing but will give you a nice motor with good power. Rick L.

very budget minded FE--also offers some crate engines

http://www.precisionengine.com/rebui...ury/index.html

Why does this guy Mc Doo get on about every FE post I see. ith the after market cranks out right now you would be better of going with a stroker package for 1495.00 that includes tha crank, rods, forged pistons, pins, locks, bearings and rings. It is all new a nd not 40 years old. The 428 cranks are bringing as much or more than the new cast steel cranks are becaue of the restorers wanting them.
Your budget build goes out the door with the new Genesis or Pond block. If you are doing a budget build use a 390 block and do a stroker package that will give you about 430 to 445 C.I. in the 390 block. If you want the new block then you will still want to do the new stroker package. I would not cut corners if I was using a 4000.00 block.
We can sell you everything you need to build just what you want for less money than about anyone and point you in the right direction so you do not have to do it again. If we can help give me a call at 870-246-7460. Thanks, Keith Craft

cast
 

I see that you don't like my comment using cast pistons. But this was about building a budget FE, right?

I built various engines with cast pistons and they served their clients well for many miles.
Ok, let's invest the $300 difference and order other pistons.

Talking budget, there are rental Cobras here with 180hp Target master engines, which lasted years. And the clients were happy.

Maybe we should define "budget" and put a number in $$$ to it. $12.000 is not "budget" for me, $6.000 with a push. How about $4.000?

Dom

Oh, I use cast pistons too in some builds....but they're cast aluminum....:p

Just giving you a hard time over the cast iron line....

Happy Holidays....

When building an FE (or any engine) first look at the application. Then build the motor to it. If you can get away with a budget build-great.

But, I agree with Keith: "Your budget build goes out the door with the new Genesis or Pond block. If you are doing a budget build use a 390 block and do a stroker package that will give you about 430 to 445 C.I. in the 390 block. If you want the new block then you will still want to do the new stroker package. I would not cut corners if I was using a 4000.00 block."

I would contact Barry (Survival) , Keith (Keith Craft), or Dennis (Pops Performance), if doing an FE build. All 3 of these gentlemen have a sterling reputation & an incredible wealth of knowledge on these motors. Anyone of them can help you with any stage of the build.

Merry Christmas to all!!

Hi Brent, Wishing You & Yours a Blessed Holiday Season!!

iron
 

Did I really write cast iron pistons? Oh my word...
Must be the single malt.

Happy holiday!

Dom

So my intent was this;

I have a complete 390 with some C4AE heads. (I need to get casting numbers listed)

having a soft spot for FE's since aiding /rebuilding of an 427 Side-Oiler, 428' cj's in 2 GT500 KR's.

I was thinking of a nice 390/428 for a future project.

keep in mind this is for a street car and not full out race car.

Just rebuild that short block with a better camshaft and then just get a set of Edelbrock heads out of the box because you can not rebuild the steel heads right for the money you can buy the Edelbrocks for. Then get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake for the top end. You can do a nice hydraulic flat tappet if you use the right break in oil and then keep running something like the Jo Gibbs Hot Rod oil that still has the zinc and other additives to help it live. You will then need a nice carburetor and distributor as well. You will spend in the 5000.00 to 6000.00 range depending on how much you do your self and exactly what parts you use. You should be able to get in the 450 to 475 HP range out of the engine depending on a few things that you do. I can build you a complete 390 if you would like for about 8000.00 that would do you a nice job and have some nice parts in it. Good luck, Keith Craft

Keith, is there a off the shelf hydraulic flat tappet you'd recommend for that 390?
I'm basicly doing the same thing for a F100. 3.00 rear
Same engine in a Cobra, what would you suggest? 3.27 rear

I'll echo a lot of the comments.

The most cost effective budget 390 I would spec for a Cobra would have a freshened up stock bottom end with a set of off the shelf Edelbrocks, an RPM intake with a 750, a Duraspark ignition, and a shelf Comp cam. Cheap to build, would drive just fine in a light car, and would have enough of the external cosmetics of a 427 for shows.

A "funner" version of the 390 would use a 4.250 stroker package, a Comp 282S solid cam and the required hardware, and tuning up the heads a bit. Still reasonable in cost - but more power by a bunch and it'll have that desireable solid lifter sound.

Once you go from a 390 to a 427 of any sort you leave "budget" behind and instead seek value - or glory.......

Yay!! This is the first "pro flat tappet solid lifter cam" post from a respected FE engine builder that I can remember in a long, long time. Glad to see at least one of our builders hasn't left his kahunas back in the locker room. ;)

Steve, that lightly used 482 asking $12K would be awesome if you could swing it.

I bought the car that engine was in and I can attest that Brad the seller is a 100% stand-up guy to do business with. Not to mention KC built it.

why didnt you buy drivetrain w/car???