Install Blue Thunder intake
 

Any pointers / thoughts about the correct way to do this would be appreciated.

I'm going to pull the Edelbrock intake that came on my KC 482 and install a Blue Thunder intake (already ported to match KC stage 2 heads).

Can I reuse the intake gaskets? The engine only has dyno time. Or do I need to get new ones from KC?

Can I install the Blue Thunder using the install instructions for the Ede RPM manifold?

KC puts a nice black silicone bead around the intake. I would like to do the same. Would this stuff from Jegs work?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/28045/10002/-1

BTW - I'll be selling the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake for a good price. I has been port matched to KC stage 2 heads. PM me if interested. It is new, dyno time only.

You need new intake gaskets. My suggestion, call Keith tell him what you are doing and let him supply you with the materials you need and instructions on how to do it properly so that it doesn't leak.

Are you installing the BT intake for looks ?, or how much more Torque/HP do you think you'll get?

As mentioned above, I'd use new gaskets.
On mine I pre-fit the manifold and inspected all the mating surfaces as well as pre-fitting the gaskets for inspection.
For final installation I used a sealing product called "The Right Stuff" in areas where I found gaps that I didn't like the look of.
Then a light a coating of aviation gasket seal on all the metal to metal "meeting" surfaces that are gasket sealed.
Once the manifold was in place I made sure all the bolts had a good start to them and used a cross over sequence working back and forth from opposite ends, slowly and equally snugging down each bolt a few turns at a time.
Once the manifold was snugged up I torqued them down to spec. using the same sequence as described above.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...3944270026.JPG

Hi-Tech,

Get a new set of KC's own intake gaskets for his stage II CNC'd heads. Then get a tube of "Gorrila Snot" (Yellow weather strip adhesive). Coat the head where the gasket sits and the entire "head side" of the intake gasket with the weather strip adhesive. Let them sit for 5 minutes then stick the intake gasket to the head. Make sure you're dead on as you won't get a second chance. ensure the gasket is pressed tightly to the head. Use a light coat of RTV on the gasket surface that meets the intake. This is how Keith's people do it and the method is tried and true. I know as I've used it before on a certain intake

I prefer RTV over "The Right Stuff" for the china walls as "The Right Stuff" skins over too quick for me.

Dave

Anthony,
Not for more hp/torque (I think it's OK in that dept.). More for the original look. I did my first cobra when I was 33. It had lots of modern hardware on it and that worked for me then.

This time around, originality means something, that is why the BT.

Undy,
Don't I know you from somewhere? ;)

How thick should the RTV be on the intake side?

lineslinger,
What do you think of the RTV from Jeg's (link in my first post)?

Yep, I too have some sort of faint recollection..:rolleyes:

Measure both gaps at the China walls with a feeler gauge after you set the intake down on your glued down intake gaskets. Mine was right at 0.100". I put about a 1/4" high bead down on both ends. Be careful not to put too much RTV at the ends of the China walls as you might restrict both heads' oil returns.

Make sure you check your angles and clearances where the intake contacts the heads, top and bottom, before you bolt anything down. Again, use use a feeler gauge to check. You'll be looking for the top of the gasket and the bottom of the gasket to have the same clearance. That will ensure uniform intake gasket compression and a "non-oil sucking" intake gasket seal.

Also, I don't like ARP's or anyone else's intake manifold bolt kits. The bolts end up being too short for the aluminum heads (good length for iron heads though), leading to a high potential for stripped holes when torqued to specs. I made a 304 tempered stainless intake stud set for mine. I set the manifold and run the studs down to the bottom of the holes. I slotted the top of the studs so I can install/remove studs with a screw driver. I've never stripped a hole or sucked oil past the gaskets with this setup. The 3' length of stainless all thead ran me 12 bucks and a half hour of fabrication time, well worth the investment.

Even BarryR liked my idea on the studs:3DSMILE:..

Dave

So many of these materials develop a following through usage and long term performance. Thats one reason you will see varied recommendations as to which you should use.
I have not used the product you are curious about thus have no advice to offer.
Mostly though, these specialized products are reliable and of good quality, you just need to find what you like best.
Undy's technique for inserting the studs is a pretty cool technique, I would consider that seriously.
One thing to keep in mind, and I'm sure you know, is to keep your work area really clean, Its really amazing how one little speck of "shop crap" can screw up your whole project.

I spend an inoordinate amount of time fitting intakes. Seems to be my Achille's heel.

I will use a pair of non-embossed gaskets - like the Mr. Gasket 202A, and set the intake in place dry on them using an empty distributor housing as a locating/positioning dowel. I will then square the end seal "China walls" so they are level side to side - usually somewhere around .100-.150".

Once located and level I will take feeler guages and check the angle fit by stabbing all four corners upper and lower - you end up with eight measurements - front left upper, front left lower, etc. The desired is that you have no more room than .010 at any corner. I write them on the intake at each point with a Sharpie.

Now I look at port alignment and bolt hole alignment using a small flashlight and dental mirrors. Here you want bolt holes as close to centered as you can get them, and ports with a smooth transition - especially at the top and "long" side. Also look at the valve cover rail alignment - if its too high or low it'll cause problems. Once again I mark things up with a Sharpie so I can keep track.

Pushrod holes come next. While mocked up you can usually test fit pushrods - unless things are waaaaay out of trim. With pushrods in place and rockers clicked down you can roll through a couple turns to see if and where the pushrods hit on the passages. On milder motors things here are usually fine. Some of my stuff requires drastic moves and changes. Best to know first, before we start cutting. Sharpie......

Some guys get lucky and things are great right out of the box. Never seems to happen for me, and I end up trimming the intake to get close to the right angle, height and port alignment. Often its really a best shot deal where you can't get it dead perfect without multiple machinings - but close enough is good enough for the vast majority of builds. Your machinist should be able to interpret all the Sharpie markings after he gets done laughing at them - FE intake faces are a flat 90 degrees to the deck so its easy math to lower the intake - or double/thicker gaskets can raise it if required. Bolt holes can be opened up as needed - Dove intakes often require a couple opened to just get bolts started - better again to test fit fasteners and fix before installing.

I have been using High Tack spray adhesive to glue gaskets to the heads, a "coat of paint" thin layer of silicone between the gasket and the intake, and a silicone bead front and back. I prefer the Motorcraft gray silicone that is designed for 6.5/7.3 diesel engines - highly oil resistant, and sets up very firm - almost plastic like. Comes in a caulk tube from the Ford dealer.

Once everything is installed be sure to pull the distributor out and be certain that silicone has not pushed into the distributor hole - its tough to remove once dry.