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Valve cover gaskets, thick/thin, rubber/cork
OK...I have Edelbrock heads and cast aluminum valve covers with studs and nylon insert locknuts.
From my old school days I have always used the basic cork gaskets (usually buy the Fel-Pro 13049C, about 1/8" thick) glued with 3M "yellow snot" to the valve cover and a light coat of grease on the head side. They work ok, but periodic I have to tighten them to stop the weeping and replace them because they get thin and hard. My local NAPA guys suggested trying the Fel-Pro rubber gasket 13049R (1/8" thick) or the Fel-Pro performance cork gasket 1632 (about 3/16" thick). They think either one will be more resilient, seal better and last longer. Anybody tried either of these? Better success with the rubber or the thicker performance cork gasket? I also found some postings here on CC about a 5/16" cork gasket sold by DSC Motorsports. Is this thicker gasket better? And....these look interesting. Has anyone tried them? http://www.realgaskets.com/ Rodger |
I have tried both cork and rubber. I now use rubber that are 3m Weatherstripped to the valve covers. Since I have solid lifters I can't completely seal them to the heads but I still run a very light smear of the gray RTV along the back sides after the covers have been torqued down (about 6 ft/lbs or so). They're about 99% oil tight. Not completely, but darn close.
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Use the 13049R's with the exact same procedure you're using now. Mine are bone dry since '03. And that's with annual valve clearance checks.
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I didn't find the rubber worked any bettter or any worse than the cork. In both cases, I needed to use Permatex Aviation Sealant (gasket shellac.....used to be Indian Head....looks like molasses) to make a decent seal.
Cast covers make it easy for a coated gasket to "squirt out". Best way I have found is to glue the gasket to the cover with the gasket shellac, let dry overnight. Then coat the exposed cork and torque it down snug. After yet another 24 hours, tighten a bit more. Some attention should be made to trimming the intake manifold gaskets as they usually stand proud between the manifold and the head. They have a metal center, but a good razor blade (or very sharp utility knife) will slice them off flush. RTV in this area is not required. Just make sure you use gasket shellac and re-torque a day later. Since I had to do this with rubber as well as cork, I now only use cork as it is cheaper. On the other hand, the rubber ones can be used a few times, so I guess it's really just personal preference based on whim of the day. |
DSC Motorsports makes a thick cork gasket that seals really well. Come to think of it, they sell FE valve cover gaskets in three different thicknesses. I have used their extra thick gaskets adhered to the valve cover only for three seasons now with zero leaks.
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5/16" from DSC glued to the cover with "TheRightStuff". Sticks better than the yellow snot. Greased the head side. Third year no leaks and they've been off a bunch of times.
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I don't have this down to specific part numbers, but I like the Felpro cork composition. I attach them to the valve cover with RTV Black and let them dry. while they are drying I make sure to put bolts through the valve covers for alignment. Then I coat the other side with rtv and allow it to dry.
Wipe them down and put them in place. As long as you do not destroy the gasket by over tightening, they will seal for years. Just my $0.02 worth :D |
I recommend Felpro's rubber gaskets which are reusable. I've had good luck with them. I'm using AFR heads and FMS Cobra valve covers.
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