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antifreeze dripping out the bellhousing
I have antifreeze dripping out the bottom of the bell housing and it's not from the intake or heads....any suggestions or thoughts?
Jon |
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leaks
I'm wondering if it is one of the three plugs around the cam plug. after installing the backing plate and the trans for mock up it was taken apart and I noticed that the allen screw had made a impression on the backing plate ( Lakewood)..
I hope I didn't screw up the block Jon |
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Odd story...I cracked a block one time, so anti-freeze got in the oil. When I pulled everything apart, I found pure anti-freeze behind the cam...between the cam and the rear cam plug. Have no idea how it seperated from teh oil back there, but there it was.
So, if you have even a minor coolant leak somewhere, you could have some leaking out the back cam plug if it isn't sealed correctly. Two problems at once.....nice.......hope you find a minor problem and an easy cure. ps: pressure test your rad and look for coolant leaks first. Fix that and you may only have a bit of oil leaking after that, and that's OK as most FEs leak "SOMEWHERE"!!!!!! |
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oil sample
who do you send a oil sample to?
Jon |
Check your side plugs, one sits right over the starter. This could run into the BH.
See if you can borrow/rent a pressure tester. Or you can get one of those expanding drain cleaners from the home center, hook it to your garden hose and put it in the cap opening. Beats having to look for this with a hot block. |
A good radiator shop will have a pressure tester they will pump up the cooling system and check for leaks........
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Just dump a tube of Alumi Seal in it and run it, don't go with a too high pressure radiator cap.
I had the same problem with my FE when it was new..small leak coming from behind the bell housing. It stopped when I put Alumi Seal in it and #12 cap....over 8000 miles on it...no problems with water leaking now. leaks no oil, uses no oil and no oil in the crankcase. Bill ps, I carry a tube of Alummi Seal in my trunk for field emergencies. |
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:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek: I am sure you ment antifreeze.:3DSMILE: Terry |
Most successful method I have used is to add a "coolant dye" to the cooling system. Run the engine untill leak appears and test with a "black light"--- UV I guess. Will show the source in a bright color (usually yellow) and dye will wash off when work is completed. What you don't need is to pull the engine and still have doubt as to the cause. Works well with oil leaks also but be sure to use the proper dye as it is different for most applications Good luck Ron
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After working in a radiator shop for 10 years i would never use alumi seal for any type of repair that had to do with a leak in the block, that is a BAND AID repair at best and should be delt with properly, alumi seal is a temporary fix for a radiator leak so you can get that leak fixed properly.
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There is that metal filings looking stuff they sell at AutoZone. You can put a tube in and see if the leak is fixed.
If it was a head gasket, you would see in on top of the rear of the block. Seems like Pat has covered the main bases. There is also infrared die. That may pinpoint the exact location and save you from pulling the engine. If it is in the block ( crack ) it will get worse as the block thermally cycles. Just my opinion. :D |
If you call Blackstone they'll send out a bottle and instructions for your sample at no charge. Send it back and mark it with priority and they usually turn it around very quick.
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Your correct any sealant is a temporary fix for a radiator leak...like.. say a chunk of road kill strikes your radiator out on the highway....water starts to go away....you got to plug the hole.
Alumi seal works great for small soft plug leaks and the like, and emergencies. At least it might get you in from the outback. The KISS Method, Keep It Simple Stupid |
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