Suppliers for dry sump?
 

On my stang, then engine sits lower than stock (TCP Motor mounts), which is great for handling, and great for air cleaner clearance but the cobra tee pan sits very low. Too low to add an aftermarket rack and pinion steering system.

I know a lot of cobras use a dry sump system. Who are good suppliers to speak to about pans etc?

Check www.daileyengineering.com. Bill has a pan for the FE motor. The depth of the pan is less than 2 inches.

Check my gallery and you will see pics of my pan both on and off the car. It's a billet piece and his pump will extract all the pressure from your motor...no need for breathers.

Good Luck

Avivad oiling system
 

67FEfastback Avivad sells a complete setup for and FE motor. Brackets,spacers, pulleys, tanks, and belts. The pumps are trick too if you want to run a P/S pump behind the oil pump. Dove sells an drysump with internal oil pump. You will need to find a place in the r/f corner under the hood for this setup. I am not a fan of runnng 10-14' or hose to the trunk for the supply tank. Rick L. Ps. Look at Peterson pumps also.

Yep, got to be Aviaid if it's for an FE. http://www.aviaid.com/
Larry

Dry sump
 

Phone John @ Aviaid 818 998 8991,
Just bought a complete system from him for my 427 FE.
Rgds,Mike.

Thanks guys for the links and information

67FEfastback

I have sent you a PM

So I take it that this means you're not running the Dove dry sump any longer?

Why?

If I may ask the question, then is $3,000 about right for all the parts? What type of system did you purchase. I would love to hear some details.

I've thought about dry sumping way back when, but then the initial cost and maintenance steer me back to doing nothing.

Dry Sumps
 

You cannot beat a Dailey, I have one and it pulls 13" of vacuum! The Aviad stuff is period correct but nowhere as good functionally. I have #16 lines on both feed and return and (the best part) my FE does not leak when the engine is running. When stopped it is like an old Harley though, since there is no vacuum. I am also using a Stephs pan and Steph's 16 qt tank, I do not know about the Dailey pan but the pictures look good.

Anthony,

The Dove pan was a 2-piece pan and I could not stop it from leaking. Other than leaking a little...it worked fine.

No leaks...none...with the Dailey pan.

Do you still have the dove???
 

SoTxButler Russ do you still have the Dove setup?? There are no gaskets between the pump and oil pan? Have seen a couple of pictures and hard to tell what is going on. If the pump a spur gear or rotorgear setup. How do you adjust the belt for this? Any good pictures would be nice. Rick L. Ps if it's to machined aluminum surfaces, I can seal them.

Here's pic of Dove pan...
 

Sealing engine with DS
 

Does everyone here with DS seal up the engine to maximize vacuum, ie; plug up vents like on the oil breather cap, etc? I believe you're typically supposed to have a small dia vent line from the crankcase running to the DS tank, but otherwise seal it up. My factory race engine has the old Shelby American dry sump setup, however, which I doubt has anywhere near the suction power of modern setups, so have been vacillating on how necessary it is to make sure the crankcase is sealed......with very low vacuum it may be better to vent?

No, I never ran a sealed motor that saw double duty in a track/street application, but do run all the race-only motors sealed. The main reason we ran the race stuff sealed was for the power advantage of the low tension/friction ring packages and gas-ported pistons. The gas ported stuff runs very thin, low friction rings that only seals on the combustion stroke. On the other three strokes the ring pack is doing very little and relys on DS vacuum to control oil consumption. We also run rods with EDM holes to oil the wristpins, special crank seals for vacuum, one-way pop-off valve, and silicone every gasket surface... among other things. On an all-out motor for a racing application there is a definite benefit, but I do not run that set up on the street... I vent.

ds benefit
 

Thanks Scott. If you can benefit (ie; more HP) from generating a vacuum even on your street engines with the higher tension ring packs, then why not keep the crankcase sealed on those engines too?

Good question... we didn't see significant gains on the dyno with the street combo and that was on the same dyno with the dyno drysump system. On the other hand, the dirt LM engines that were built to run sealed, I think we picked up about 15hp @ 10" making 800+ hp.

I know the new Z06 Vette drysumped LS7 motors are running lower tension rings for a street application, probably to increase fuel economy, but they also have oil control issues. The track guys are going to vacuum pumps or a Dailey system on these. I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.

For my Cobra I just wanted a low maintenance, reliable, street/track motor. I didn't want to send the pump out all the time to insure it was in the condition required to pull vacuum. In fact, being that is was a SCP 4-stage pump, it wasn't a good enough pump to pull vacuum (for a sealed application) when it was new.

[/quote]I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.[/quote]

smartest thing i've heard in a long time.;)

i set up my 9.5 windsor dart block with dry sump system. the system is now sealed with appropriate seals and pulls vacuum. don't know exactly how much or hp gains, but motor sounds different. this is with low tension oil rings and normal top rings. ran it initially as an open system. dry sump is nice if you can get over the cost and everything works as planned. i'd budget at least $2500 for aftermarket system, by the time you get all the hoses etc. would i do it again, yes, i think the advantages outweigh the work involved. you can also gain ground clearance. as scott has done, this would be the way i would do it if done again and work out all the modifications. mine has an avaid pump, and i don't know if i'd use it again, it was doable though with their brackets, didn't research others.

Rick Lake...Yes, I still have the Dove dry sump pan. There is no adjustment on the belt...just a gilmer pully to the crank. The surface between the pump section (front of the pan) and the rear section of the pan is a machined aluminum surface. The internal oil pump is in the stock position and the scavenge pump is on the passenger side and there is a tube running the length of the pan from the scavenge pump.

The reason it leaked is that there is a internal bolt to the block that is hidden inside the front portion of the pan on the passenger side. In order to reach that bolt, you have to slide the rear part of the pan toward the rear, but the bellhousing won't allow enough movement to "slide" it off the scavenge tube.

So, remember, I just started out trying to stop the leak between the front and rear parts of the pan. I thought, just remove the pan, clean everything up, use some good RTV (gray stuff), tighten the pan bolts real good and everything would be good. Not going to happen without pulling the transmission, clutch and bell housing. Not pretty. So, I got it off but it now needs a little work...LOL...but still usable.

Anyway, the system is a good one...uses the stock oil pump driven off the distributor and a scavenge pump driven off the gilmer pulley. I just decided to go with a new external pump and scavenge system and will probably make a sculpture out of the old one. The Dailey pump, pan and suction manifold is a work of art. I am very pleased. There are some pics of the Dailey pan posted in my profile.