Club Cobra - Mounting the body

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Mounting the body

Discussion Tools

11-09-2016 02:22 PM - permalink

ziggy75

I have measured from firewall to edge of hood opening and I get the measurements per manual 1 inch 1/4. So I feel pretty good about this location. At that point, I lifted the body and placed 1x4 wood on 4 corners of tub (in front of rear tires and behind front tires). I measured from outer front bracket to wheel well, per manual directions and get the 17 (and some odd measurement)inches. I cant remember exactly what the remaining measurement is. So I feel pretty confident on this area.

11-09-2016 02:25 PM - permalink

ziggy75

I couldnt find anything in manual that places the rear of body side to side. Also, what about the whole body forward-backward position? I see there is a small hump on the underside just behind the furthest rear area of framing behind gas tank. Should this be but up against the frame? As far as wheel wells, they look reasonably centered.

What did you guys use for shims? I am assuming you used 1x2 steel tubing. Did you place it across the whole floor area or just over the mounting bolts?

Can anyone explain a little more in depth on the bonding process? Any tips or suggestions? I would like to set this up where I can remove the body at some point in the future if needed. The manual doesnt really talk much about how to do this. Do you add the adhesion onto the tub with fiberglass cloth and then lower the body over?

11-10-2016 03:51 AM - permalink

mdross1

I used the best adhesive available at that time recommended for bonding fiberglass the following day applied the fiberglass inside along the seams to this day it still looks solid. I also drilled and tapped all body to frame connections thinking one day I might take the body off. All shims used were custom cut biscuits at the bolt locations only and there were only a few

11-10-2016 07:16 AM - permalink

ziggy75

Once that tub is placed inside the body and I measure the required distance between the firewall and the edge of the hood opening, there should be no reason to be worried about the tub not being aligned with the body, correct? I guess this is my biggest concern at this point. Once these two pieces are bonded, I think it will simplify what I am trying to do. My body comes down and meets with the tub. I have seen some pictures of standard wheel based SB's that suggest there is no rear section of tunnel that mates with tunnel on tub. Is this correct? The reason why I am asking is because the manual states that I should use rivots along the backside of the tub to body. If this is so with your model, did you do the same while bonding the two together? As for those shims, what do you mean by custom cut biscuits?

11-10-2016 10:10 AM - permalink

Harry Truppner

Hello ziggy75. Before you go too much farther on the body, let's address your frame. My CMC frame has a driveline scatter shield welded to the diagonal uprights and tunnel area, but your frame does not. Your rear floor liner fiberglass tunnel may not protect you very well. My CMC manual page 2-1 figure 2 shows the bare frame with shield. Maybe SB's do something different, don't know. Harry

11-10-2016 10:48 AM - permalink

ziggy75

The kit came with a couple driveshaft loops. I have yet to attach this. I am waiting on headers and sidepipes to verify front to rear placement of engine. A lot of things seem to be up in the air at the moment. I need the body on to determine where the headers need to exit to determine how the headers will fit. I cannot have my driveshaft modified until I am certain that my engine placement is correct. Also, I am trying to get Shell Valley to produce some headers for me. It has been somewhat challenging to say the least.

11-10-2016 02:27 PM - permalink

Harry Truppner

Hello ziggy75. Loops vs shield, CMC vs SB, I'm working 'A' model and you are working 'B' model, some things differ. OK well, the other question, will you open the back face of the fiberglass tunnel on the front floor liner/tub for driveshaft clearance? Harry

11-10-2016 07:13 PM - permalink

ziggy75

Hi Harry,
Not sure what you are referring to opening the tunnel for driveshaft clearance. Could you please elaborate? The underside of the tub is completely open where tunnel is.

Josh

11-11-2016 04:18 AM - permalink

mdross1

The custom cut bisquits I speak of are used to shim the body to frame to eliminate stressing the fiberglass when bolting it down to the frame. when bonding the cowl into the body I did not use rivets instead wrapped ratchet straps completely around body and frame to pull them together till the bonding solidified and the fiberglassing was done.
In my experience you do not need that steel tunnel that comes on some frames the driveshaft loops are enough. Use high quality U Joints these cars at not heavy enough or unless you are drag racing using sticky rubber would you ever have to think about that area.

11-11-2016 08:07 AM - permalink

Harry Truppner

Hello ziggy75. With the 1 1/4" and liner/tub straight on frame, you should be good. You can then locate the floor mount holes for the steering column support. I bonded and riveted the overlap area of the front and rear floor liners. Beware not to drill fore and aft frame members for rivet spacing. Like mdross1, I used ratchet straps to pull side body to floor lips for bonding. I added truss head machine screws thru body and floor lip into blind nuts in equal spacing for additional holding during bonding. Cut flush at nuts and bonded over. The heads are barely noticeable especially with side pipes installed. Spacers are fender washers-JB welded together-primed and painted. To locate spacers where fingers won't reach, make thin cardboard ring with handle-slip over spacer-slide into position-insert bolt-rip cardboard off. Your 6th photo posted 10-06-2016 @ 06:40 PM shows rear fiberglass face covering/blocking tunnel. Am I incorrect? Harry

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