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Are these kind of battery terminals good?
Anybody used these?
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ay-21414_w.jpg http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ay-21412_w.jpg They look like they would be clean and easy. Or, do you all think the crimp type connectors are ultimately better? I'm thinking the crimp type with a good tool (then solder them after the crimp) and use a good thick piece of heat shrink tube over the seam is the most reliable over time. However, I saw these and they caught my eye as being neat and clean. But, reliability is the #1 thing for me. |
Interesting ends. Never seen that type before. Where did you find them? I've always had my local battery supply make up whatever I need.
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I don't have enough info on them to make me try them over the tried-and-true way of doing it yet. |
that type cable end is mainly for industrial type use for repairs in the field---they work good, carry a lot of amperage, etc---they are a little bulky in the heavier guage sizes as compared to the swaged type oem auto cables
but of course they suffer the same as other types---poor install equals poor results |
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I always liked the saying "Garbage in. Garbage out" |
They are quick and easy, no special tools needed. In 3-4 years, you can easily take them apart for cleaning. Good product.
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I've used them for battery terminals. Have never had a problem as long as 20 years use.
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you can also still hit them with a blowtorch and solder if you get bored.
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Thanks guys.
I think I'll opt to use regular crimp-on connectors and then solder them after crimping. And of course, use that fancy sealer type of heat shrink tubing too. |
Crimp, solder and heat shrink? Whoa, to much hassle. I'd use the new product and be done with it.
One problem I've noticed over the years with a "sealed connection" is that it's impossible to see what's going on inside, underneath that seal. Corrosion can and will still occur if conditions are right, but the connection may look perfect on the outside. In that regard this bolt on product looks superior to me. Check and clean when required beats head scratching and wondering "what if" in my book. |
Oh Come on Ernie---solder hasn't ever created any source for corrosion or stiffened up the connection to where vibration breaks the cable one strand at a time!!!!!
I use either connections like these or the hammer swedge type and/or welding cable type stuff To me solder is for pipes under the sink in the bath room |
I got a call, some years ago, from a friend with a Cobra (FFR) that wouldn't start, he was stranded at the gas station. Dead battery he thought, as did I. Jumper cables hooked up and we still had nothing. Connections looked good and tight, clean. Eventualy, after much head scratching, we cut the insulation back on a factory type battery cable. Nothing but "green" inside! I was surprised how far back under the insulation the corrosion extended. Re-did the cable connect, started right up.
Copper is like that, you can cover it, insulate it, seal it, heck it might still start the corrosion process! |
I have seen similar situation where everything looked ok except underneath.
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For long term reliability of my cable connections, I will use an AGM battery. I don't think corrosion would be a concern anyway with the adhesive type of heat shrink tubing but it definitely won't be using an AGM battery.
I'm putting a good bit of money into this cable and long-term reliability is my main goal. So, crimp, solder and adhesive type of heat shrink is what I want to do. Thanks for all of the feedback though. It is a good discussion. I didn't know about these locking fittings but I think even though they may be good, they are a little bulky versus the crimp type since they are copper cast. |
the areas of most shortcomings are in the grounds to the engine and frame anyway---no matter what battery you use
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