Starting Engine After Winter Lay-up
 

Keith:

My engine hasn't been run lately. What should I do before firing it up?

Thanks!

David

What does lately mean?

You're right, that was a pretty minimal word. How about, "since before Christmas."

Thanks for yout input! :)

I would look at the oil and see if it has gotten a lot of moisture in it over the winter and might want to change it and the filter. The lifters if hydraulic may have collasped some but they will pump back up when you start it after the engine runs a while. If you want to take the time and remove the distributor, you can run the oil pump with a drill motor and extention with a socket to get the oil mpressure back up and pump up the lifters as well if they are hydraulic. This is not something that you have to do. I would also check all of the fluid levels on the car including the water in the radiator. After you start and run and it cools of you may want to run back over some of the bolts, like the oil pan, valve covers, intake and headers. If everything looks ok you should be fine to start and just look at the normal stuff. Hope this helps a little bit. Thanks, Keith

Thanks, Keith! That's very helpful. One concern I had was whether lubrication at startup is an issue but it sounds like that isn't a big deal.

David

How would you prime it with an LS1?

I can tell you what not to do !! A friend of mine suggested that I spray a little WD-40 into each cylinder prior to startup. Worked OK until the third cylinder and then the little red straw flew off and down into the cylinder. It actually caused more worry than anything. Consulted a couple of mechanics (because I tried and tried to fish it out with no luck) and they said start it up and within 5 seconds it will be gone. Sure enough that was last year, drove it a whole summer with no ill effects.

Like they say "Live and Learn"

I store all my toys over the winter (I live in Canada). Part of my winter storage maintainence plan is to fog the motors. I do this by letting the engine idle and pouring some oil or Dexron II down the carb(s) slowly. This coats the valves, cylinders and pistons. Occasionally during the winter I will disconnect the coil wire, and turn the motor over, so as to re-distribute the oil on the crank and in the combustion chamber. It also keeps the valve springs from being compressed for the whole winter. Change the oil before you store it, as condensation in the motor will combine with unburnt carbons in the old oil and create a corrosive that will eat away at your main bearings. I have been told that adding STP to your winter storage oil will keep the oil on your crank and bearings as it is a little stickier than clean oil. I have found that when I do fog the motor, start up in the spring is a little less noisy, but quite a bit smokier! Most automotive supply stores carry a spray cylinder fog oil. I don't use it because you have to remove each spark plug and spray each cylinder. I find fogging from the carb does a more thorough job. Don't forget to add some fuel stabilizer to your gas tank! Not quite sure how much truth is in this, but my bike mechanic told me, that in order to meet emmision standards, the oil companies have refined the gas we burn to such an extent, that there is very little lubricant left in it. The gas is basically "dry". He recommened that I add a bit of oil or Dexron II to my gas tank. Not too much, that you are going to foul the plugs, just a bit to keep those valves lubricated. Maybe one of the other members can confirm or debunk this for me.

I have stored numerous Baja Outlaws, 496 etc for 7 or 8 months during the winter and never did anything except turn the key in the spring with absolutely no ill effects. you risk more damage than good, park the car turn off the key and say goodnight