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RON N BKFLD 11-14-2009 01:09 PM

Turn signals
 
Kirkham with CSX47XX wire harness.......Are the turn signals wired through a relay? If so which one. Brake lights work, but no turn signals. Ron

MOTORHEAD 11-15-2009 07:39 AM

Ron: are you saying that your kirkham has a csx wiring harness? don't know about the csx part, but my kirkham wiring dia. shows flasher output and brake lite power after pedal sw going to a "stop lamp isolating relay". I have no idea where it is located, but probably under the dash. All stop/turn bulbs run off the output of this relay. The dia shows only the front L&R turn bulbs, I assume the rears are just paralled off the fronts. I'm not set up to scan, but I could fax this page to you. Also, call kirkham, i'm sure they can help.
Ted

car4jim 11-15-2009 08:00 AM

Turn signal circuits have a flasher, but current draw is low, so I don't think you will find a relay. My Kirkham has a newer wire harness, a Painless I believe, so I'm not sure about the design of the original style harness. Look under the dash for the flasher. Typicaly a small can with a two plug spade connector. The turn signal wire harness has a ground connection. Check the connection, without the ground, nothing.

big-boss 11-16-2009 11:17 AM

Ron- You will need to put a diode in the one of the wires on each turn signal. The diode acts as a "one way" valve, so when you put on the brakes the juice does not go back to the flasher. Pretty simple. Radio shack and soldier and some heat shrink.

patrickt 11-16-2009 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big-boss (Post 1001697)
Ron- You will need to put a diode in the one of the wires on each turn signal. The diode acts as a "one way" valve, so when you put on the brakes the juice does not go back to the flasher. Pretty simple. Radio shack and soldier and some heat shrink.

You shouldn't have to do that. Especially if the turn signals don't work without even touching the brakes.

xlr8or 11-16-2009 02:14 PM

Here's the diagram Motorhead is talking about... It's the earlier polish wiring harness from Kirkham. Isolating relay in bottom right corner.



http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i.../427wiring.jpg

RON N BKFLD 11-16-2009 02:20 PM

MH... Yes I have a harness from CSX4000 doner car. The turn signals worked OK, then the right rear started started getting dimmer & dimmer. I checked the ground, It was good. I tried to find the problem. Now I have no turn signals at all. Tried a new flasher, no workie.
My 289 car has the Kirkham supplied Lucus harness as you discribed, it's completly different than the Shelby. I have the Kirkham diagram,,,,,,,Thanks Ron

RON N BKFLD 11-16-2009 02:28 PM

Jim........Yeah, I tried that

Bill........I'm not that smart.


patrickt........Thanks


It took about 1500 miles for them to go away........Thanks Ron

RON N BKFLD 11-16-2009 02:33 PM

xlr8or,,,,,,thanks, thats the diagram I used on my 289 assembly, I keep it in my pics. Ron

Gunner 11-16-2009 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RON N BKFLD (Post 1001733)
MH... Yes I have a harness from CSX4000 doner car. The turn signals worked OK, then the right rear started started getting dimmer & dimmer. I checked the ground, It was good. I tried to find the problem. Now I have no turn signals at all. Tried a new flasher, no workie.

I would suspect a bad connection somewhere in the harness that's specific to the right turn signal. An oxidized solder joint or corroded connector would present a higher and higher resistance, dimming the bulb until it no longer lit.

Turn signal flashers are usually a "balanced" component that will only work with a narrow range of load (~2 amps) on them. More, and they will flash much faster. Less, and they stop flashing - it's supposed to be a safety feature so that you know when a signal bulb is out. You can use a universal flasher that does not depend on the bulb load to maintain the flashing rate, but you're best off using the correct, balanced flasher.

Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the wire leading to the right turn signal connection. A simple way would be to turn on the right blinker (even though it's nonfunctional) and check the voltage at each point you can. You should find a connector or a segment of wire that has zero volts or close to it on the bulb side, and full 12 volts on the other. The problem lies in that stretch of the wiring harness.

patrickt 11-16-2009 03:53 PM

Is the "Stop Lamp Isolating Relay" in the bottom right hand corner area just another name for a "trailer brake/turn switch?"

RON N BKFLD 11-16-2009 04:11 PM

Gunner,,,,I'll try that.

patrickt,,,I have looked at all the harness that is exposed, can't find a stop light isolating relay or a trailer brake switch. My old Midstates had the trailer brake switch from u-haul tied in to it. worked fine. Ron

patrickt 11-16-2009 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RON N BKFLD (Post 1001766)
patrickt,,,I have looked at all the harness that is exposed, can't find a stop light isolating relay or a trailer brake switch. My old Midstates had the trailer brake switch from u-haul tied in to it. worked fine. Ron

Follow the GREEN wire from the flasher and see if it leads to something funny looking. I think you have a trailer switch tucked away in there somewhere.

RON N BKFLD 11-16-2009 06:24 PM

Thanks everyone, I got it. A bad connection in the harness. Had to close up the female connection. That made it work like it was before. I put a new flasher in and now it works perfect. I had that connecter on & off a dozen times. Unpluged it one time with the key on & heard the flasher click 1 time, Yeah.....thanks for the help..Ron

Gunner 11-16-2009 07:07 PM

Aces.

Electrical issues in cars of this era really are simple if you understand the basics.

PANAVIA 11-16-2009 07:51 PM

*Had to close up the female connection* -- is that what the kids are calling it now >?


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