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Question on oil pan removal
Hello Guys,
I was talking to a mechanic about my rear main seal leak and he mentioned that he could fix it by removing the oil pan. I have 2 questions. First, Can you remove the oil pan off a 427 block from under the car? I have not looked if there is clearence. Second question, Is it possible to replace the main seal by removing the pan? I just want to confirm before I commit. Thanks |
Do Kirkhams have the same frame as CSX cars? I was able to remove my Canton pan. Just clears the cross member as long as the rods are up for the rear cylinders. I did it without a lift too. Which pan do you have? I have heard Aviads won't clear though, although maybe you could if you loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine a bit. Hopefully someone with a kirkham will chime in.
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If you have a 2 pc rear main then yes you can remove the pan, drop the rear main cap and replace the seal. If you have a one piece seal then you will have to pull the tranny. Im not that up on the 427 so I dont know about the rear main...that you will have to find out.
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you do not need to pull a trans on an FE to change rear main seal. rear main cap will have to be removed only. whether the pan can be removed or not easily is the only question and that depends on other things
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On mine, I was not able to remove the AVIAD pan with the motor in place, the rear would not clear the frame rails and crank at the same time. Was a real pain several times.
Tom Lucas (FE specialties) replaced my RMS once (it didn't leak afterwords),and I believe he had to move/lift the motor a bit to get the pan off. And he did it as described above: dropped the crank a bit, and slipped it on without removing the tranny. |
An Aviad pan can be removed from in the car. It is VERY difficult. If you do not have access to a lift and a tranny jack, then no way. The engine and transmission have to be both lifted up. Another problem is the oil pick up is bolted to the windage tray. I think you will find it easier to pull the engine.
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Quote:
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Thanks everybody,
The best way is to pull the motor it seems. David |
Be sure it really is the rear main seal when you take everything apart. Sometimes it's the plugs in the back of the block that are leaking :eek:
David :):):) |
... or the manifold or even just the valve covers. Before even thinking about pulling the engine to monkey with the rear seal, make sure you first can pass the white paper towel test. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...9&postcount=17
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Definitely check to see of the back of the valve covers or the intake manifold is leaking. Those are very common leak points. We have fixed many leaking "rear main seals" by putting on new valve cover gaskets.
David :):):) |
My "rear crank seal leak" turned out to be the gearbox front seal. To be more specific, the oil was running along the threads of the front bearing housing bolts. :o
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I have replaced the valve covers with a beautiful set made by Gessford Machine and I have checked for leakage. Everthing is totally dry so my next step is the rear mainseal.
David |
Some of the early Shelby alloy blocks had a poorly designed rear main cap. It required further machining to get the oil to drain back correctly to the sump and not out the rear seal. Might yours fall into this group? I'm not entirely sure how to tell, by looking or date wise.
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Well, I bit the bullit today and drop the car off at the mechanic's today. I will know soon enough what is leaking. If the engine must come out I am thinking about adding a fuel gage sender and hook up the fuel gage.
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