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A little about aluminum body panels
—Aluminum is unlike steel in that it doesn’t have a “memory” or “desire” to return to its original shape once it’s damaged. It will want to remain in its damaged state, and it's necessary to apply different techniques to assist it in returning to its original state.
—Aluminum also gets harder or stiffer when it’s damaged and again when it’s straightened. This is called “work hardening." —Cosmetic exterior panels made from aluminum are generally made from heat-treated aluminum. —Heat-treated aluminum can range in hardness from a T0 (which is very soft and malleable) to T6 (so hard that when you attempt to bend it, it’ll break). Many outer aluminum body panels are temper T4, which is very strong and dent resistant. —Heat can also be used to repair dented aluminum panels, but be aware that any adhesive areas in the heat zone will have to be re-bonded at the conclusion of the repair, as well as applying corrosion protection from burned inner surfaces. __________ Interesting stuff. __________ Also this link to David Kirkham's amazing repair of a badly creased and dented rear fender: Kirkham Video of Kirkham University Aluminum Truly amazing! |
Amazing video- the guy's a genius!
Mark |
Actually, steel has very similar properties. It work hardens, takes a set when damaged requiring heating, shrinking, etc. to return it, and is brittle when hardened (like AL this is greatly affected by alloys used).
This may be better in your other thread, but I have a filed Kirkham which I plan on painting in the spring. Right now I'm finishing it up for a little fall driving. On a hot day a bout a month ago a couple drops of sweat dripped on the body, stained it, and created tiny pits. They are easy to remove, but reminded me of why I want to paint the car. Steel will rust given the same circumstances, however takes much longer to pit. |
I hope nobody has ever sweat on an aluminum boat! :eek:
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Quote:
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Alloys make the difference 5052 is a marine grade. Original Cobras used an almost pure and very soft 1100 that work hardened very little. Shapes easily and dents easily. 3003 H14 is a good material for shaping and work hardening some to hold its shape.
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Phew!
For a moment there I was gonna cancel my drive down PCH. Or should I? ;) I'll be the first to admit through experience that aluminum is comparably soft and less durable than fiberglass. But I'd still rather have it. The more time I spend (albeit limited) with originals, race cars, car museums, etc, the more I appreciate the stuff and how hand crafted cars are made. Flygirl, you really need to see the cars up close. There's no right or wrong answer, just what's right for you. |
Aren't planes made from aluminum? Aren't wheels made from aluminum?
Holy Moly. Flygirl, BTW, you ought to consider an "EXACT" Cobra, made by gentlemen named Roger (Boller?) in TX, who makes a very nice replica out of carbon fiber. Search here on CC. I believe Double Ugly, a member of this forum, has a red one for sale on CobraCountry. Roger may also have a demo for sale, at least that was mentioned a couple months ago. |
I think it's Roger Bolick, and as I never get tired of saying, his Exact Carbon Fiber cars are the best looking Cobra Replicas on the planet, period.
This one belongs to Gary Sharapa (sp?) and if Double Ugly's is still available for sale; anyone looking for a dead nuts accurate, drop dead gorgeous Cobra would do well to check it out. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/SDC10541.JPG Here's a pic of Double Ugly's from the CobraCountry ad: http://www.cobracountry.com/cobra4sa...-foyen-az3.jpg |
Thanks Buzz.
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I've seen Roger's and Gary's cars and they are outstanding indeed.
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Wow, beautiful cars. The pic of the red one especially shows off the correctness of the body to great advantage.
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