Kirkham engine/tranny installation tips? Dropping her in this weekend.
 

Ok, so I'm dropping in a 390 and toploader this weekend. Wondering if anyone has any tips for install into a Kirkham?

Planning on loading them in together, pulling the tunnel sheet metal to ease lining some of that stuff up.

What else should I be thinking about...I know there's a lot, but throw anything you can think of on the table as you never know what I haven't thought of. :)

Thanks for any assistance!

Considering it is an aluminum car, have you considered engine first and tranny later, instead of doing them together..
I hope you have enough help to guide it in and protect the body from dings etc.

Also be very aware of elbows of the helpers on the fenders.

TURK

Brent,

I saw TC's post installation and know he installed the engine with bellhousing first and then like Turk said tranny through the top of the trans tunnel second. It looked much easier that way and would not require the severe tilt of the entire assembly to install. TC chime in here!

Brent:

I dropped my 427 into my Kirkham a few weekends ago. I did it the way Turk describes, engine only. This allowed me to determine where the Lakewood housing had to be cut to clear the frame rail on the passenger side. With the engine in place I could take the bellhousing in and out. I took out the transmission tunnel as well as the two small aluminum pieces on the top of the footboxes to give me room to work. I actually dropped the engine in by myself, by using a hydraulic hoist and going slowly and very carefully. I am sure I will be taking the engine in and out a few more times in order to get everything to fit correctly. Hope this helps.

Paul

Brent,

If you do it seperately, zip tie the throwout fork to the bellhousing ear. The idea is to have the throwout bearing out near the opening that the trans bolts to. This will save a ton 'o time.

If you want to install them together, take out the lower firewall. The radiator should be out and just for insurance, take off the crank pulley.

You can bolt one engine mount to the block, but the other should be loosely placed in the frame mount with the nut on it. Passenger side is easiest to deal with.

Having 4 guys and a cherry picker that goes very high will be needed if you install as a combo.

And remember, they generally do not just fall together. You have to work at it. Don't give up!

Brent:

All good advice. When I installed the engine and transmission into KMP 142, I did so with the car on four jackstands. Wish I had had a hoist, but didn't. Hardest part, as I recall, was me hoisting the transmission into the cockpit to an ex-marine buddy of mine who tossed around that iron toploader like it was a box of feathers.

I strongly recommend that you lower the engine/bellhousing assembly onto the mounts first, LOOSELY bolting them up. then joining the transmission to that assembly thru the open cockpit I know this sound obvious, but the trans tunnel and engine compartment side panels MUST be removed to do this, and it is very helpful if the floor panels are also removed. A few other tips:

1. Make sure that you have prefitted the trans to the engine/bell assembly to ensure you will have no problems once you are in the middle of the install. Also double check to see if you have proper input shaft/crank concentricity particularly if you are using a Lakewood. Also make sure your lower flange profile is correctly cut to provide proper clearance on the frame.

2. Again, do not tighten up your front mounts, and leave a bit of looseness in the trans mount to allow some wiggle room during the install until you are satisfied that all is properly aligned.

3. When all is bolted up, you MAY find that the rear trans mounting plate bolt holes will not align closely enough to properly install those two bolts. I believe that Kirkham's solved this by elongating thse two holes, giving the installer more front to rear leeway. On my older car, the holes were round, necessitating manually filing them to fit.

4. When the engine is installed, make sure the alternator is removed. Other accessories such as starter, expansion tank and fuel pump should remain on, as they will not cause interference, and it is easier to leave them on that re-install them after the engine is in.

5. Pad everything, but not to the extent that it restricts your access to the engine compartment. Turks advice is right on...make sure your helpers understand that this is an aluminum body and it will give under elbows, knees, etc.

6. Make a list of those fasteners that will require final tightening

Just remember to take your time, and don't force anything.:)

Good Luck, Brent

I actually did both together. Bottle jack on engine hoist only had a rags worth of clearance between the top of my nose cowl and it. I ended up removing tranny a few times after, as I had the wrong tranny (long tailshaft and long story) :rolleyes:. If I did it again, I'd do it without the tranny, but it frankly it is not much difference in my mind.

Brent -

Another tip - I found that elongating the holes in the pad that the engine mounts sit on help a lot.

Make sure that your engine is sitting level when you are done.

Pat

My bad TC - I guess the logic of installing them separately got the best of my memory. I now remember the install/uninstall/install/uninstall deal with your tranny.:o Someday I hope to be able to contribute out of personal Kirkham experience.:D

Wow, really good stuff guys! Thank you all! If you've got more, I'm listening.

Well, you have changed my mind...I'll definately install separately. Bud Man, a special thanks to you for the pre-fit before I put in suggestion...I would not have thought of that (duh), and as my luck would have it, something wouldn't have lined up right. :)

if you have a puke tank on the firewall, remove it and pad the firewall. the bell housing goes almost up against the firewall. good luck:)

Now that we changed your mind, there is one more thing that will ease the transmission installation. It is NOT my idea, it is Pat's.

He bolts 2 or 4 (3"-4 ") bolts onto the transmission mounting holes on the engine. These are nothing more than grade 5 bolts with their heads removed. They are in place finger tight, and it makes alignment of the transmission that much easier, so you don't have to wrestle with it.

They act like alignment dowels, providing guidance and alignment for the two together.

TURK

That's smart...

Kris,

How nice was it to have a real crane for the SB installation.