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Any pinstripers out there?
Hi, i need a bit of advice, i have been making a 1/32 model car and it needs some lines/long sripes over the wheel arch. Its a 1950`s Porsche special.
The body has been sprayed but im rubbish at spraying and masking. I have decided to have a go at pinstriping the red lines. In fact the two over the rear wheel arches start thin ,widen and then finish thin. There are many types of pinstriping brushes out there but can anyone tell me what type for a beginner. Also this 1 shot paint, what is it ,can you just use model enamel paint, does it effect the brush. Maybe someone knows a good website they could point me towards. Thanks for reading this :) Paul |
The "one-shot" brand paint is used by sign painters. Look for it at stores that supply the trade. Model enamel will not work as by the time you thin it to flow, it will not cover and does not level out well.
You need a "sword" or "Dagger" brush (try auto paint supply stores, they are also used for touch-up). The paint must be thinned with some linseed oil to allow it to flow and so the brush can be moved over the surface without "dragging". The brush is stroked back and forth over the paint/oil mix on a stiff card to "load" the brush. To make the line start at one end and with the brush at about 45 degrees meet the surface. Pressure will allow you to control the width of the line. I am not a striper but know some guys who are. I have tried it and I can control the line width but have no "eye" for form and I can't run a line straight and even. Eastwood sells a pinstriping book and all of the supplies, check their website...and don't forget the hack's guidebook.......Google!!! A lot of practice and you will "get it" |
For a 1/32? Maybe a knat's dick.
I'm looking at my 1/32 collection as I type...not one has any painted pinstripes...there must be a reason. ;) Personally, I'd try a wooden toothpick or maybe a extra-fine point dipping pen. |
Rick, thanks for the info, i have since looked on the net and found a site that sells the brushes, just got to get the paint.
Glad you told me about the differences regarding the paint, cheers. Jamo , i know it seems like im using a sledgehammer to break an egg, but if this comes off well my model will look good. Will have to practice first though. Here is a link to a website with a picture of the Porsche special im making. Actually its Ken Miles Cooper Porsche R3. http://www.tamsoldracecarsite.net/Bi...rPorsche1.html Paul |
Now I see...when you said "pinstripes" I thought you meant pinstripes. ;)
Yup, I think a brush is far better for that...fatter than perceived. My Mom paints fine porcelin historical dolls...ultra fine work on the faces, jewelry, etc. They use extreme fine camel hair brushes...you might to track them down somewhere. Cool car! |
OK, just checked with my Mom...corrected me as usual. The ultrafine brushes are made from sable (camel for the broader brushes)...Grumbacher No. 10 being the best for flaring thin to wide like an eyebrow.
Here's the link...cheap enough for the right tool. http://www.supportproducts.com/Produ...?prodID=PP677A |
Paul,
I've got a real steady hand when it comes to painting, but even in 1:24 hand painting a pinstripe is beyond my skills. I paint with a sable brush (10/0 size I think) like what Jamo mentioned, but I also strip out all but about 10 hairs. I would just make a set of decals - do you have access to a colour laser or ALPS printer? Put a bit of tape on the body and then draw the line with a pen, then remove and scan the line you drew. Then trace it using some drawing software and print in whatever colour you need. I use Illustrator/CS. It is a high end professional program, but you can use a number of others including some that are pre-loaded on most PCs. Steve |
Thanks guys for the advice, but i have already ordered the brush. Im going to persevere , if i get good i could paint cool stripes on my sons mountain bike too. I,ve wanted to have a go at this for a while.
If my model comes out alright i,ll post a picture here.:o |
Paul, I originally looked at this link at work and could not see the pic. Now that I see what you are doing I would go for a wider flat brush. I have a 550 in 24th in my hands and a rough guess would be 6.5mm for the centre and 4mm width for the fenders for that scale. You could calculate down for 32nd or just measure the car. I think a 10/0 brush would take you a long time and leave you with a lot of brush marks (though I've never tried the linseed oil approach).
I've also been told by a friend who was a Pinhead (pinstripers union or something) that a quick stroke is best as you don't wriggle the brush from side to side as your muscles try to adjust and stay steady. I would love to see pics when you get it done! Hey Jamo, How about a Cobra model and collectibles forum? Steve |
Not a bad idea...
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Steve, thanks again for the advice, heres a bit of race history on the car when Miles owned it.
1956 Nov 18th...Paramount Ranch, 1st overall 1956 Dec 12th...Nassau Speed Week 1st 1500cc class & 4th overall 1957 Jan 20th...Pomona Faigrounds 1st overall Then car sold to Stan Sugarman in 1957, cars wherabouts now, unknown. Interesting fact .the body was a Cooper Bobtail T39 and the rear section was reshaped by Troutman & Barnes. Paul |
Well i finished my model of the Porsche Cooper R3, not easy but good fun.
I had a go at pinstriping on a pane of glass and seemed reasonably easy as your fingers steady your hand as you paint. It helps when its a nice smooth surface. So why did i go to these lenghts to paint a little model with bumps on :confused:.... anyway the end result is not perfect but its not bad. To be honest, back in the day some of these cars did not have perfect paint jobs anyway. The 1 shot tin had warning signs all over it so i thought i,d better pinstripe in the garden and not my usual place of model making (kitchen). Even outside and with a pot of thinners for my brush to dip into i felt a bit light headed, not recommended. What do you guys think of my model? Paul http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...100_1650-1.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...100_1666-1.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...100_1647-1.jpg |
Muy goodo...asspecially given the scale!
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Thank you, my cabinet is not just for Cobra models anymore. I have a shelf for cars raced by Ken Miles.
Oh dear i need to get out more, whats it like out there :) |
Nice Pooper (Porsche/Cooper)! You did the stripes and numbers a helluva lot better than I would have been able to do with a brush! I would have had to print decals, and they would have looked like printed decals. The numbers especially look very 'in-period'.
I use auto lacquer for my builds - great stuff, but not so great on your breakfast cereal. I just put in new basement windows and I am going to build a vented paint booth that takes advantage of one of the new windows. You may want to check out www.hiroboy.com. He has some good paint (not as volatile as lacquer, but goes on almost as well) with fine metallics and good coverage. Shipping should be reasonable for you as he is local. Steve |
Oh, and GREAT photos! What camera/lens setup are you using?
Steve |
Thanks for the comments Steve, the numbers are decals , i drew them, then scanned them and a friend made them into decals for me.
They look very realistic, the numbers originally was taped on, thats why they have straight edges. Our camera is a Kodak 8 mega pixel and my steady hand :) I would,nt mind making the Ford Galaxie which Ken Miles raced in november of 1963 at Riverside. He co drove it with Fred Lorenzen, only seen one picture of it. Its in Art Evans book and the same picture is in the R&T tribute to Miles in 1966. No rush , i `ll probably start my next model after christmas. Thanks for the link. Paul |
I have a bunch of '63 Galaxies lined up to do some of the BTCC races like Silverstone and Goodwood. They will look great next to the Minis and Jag MKIIs. I also want to do Dan Gurneys '60 (?) Impala that he raced at Silverstone.
I'm trying a similar technique for some decals I'm making for the Hasegawa Ferrari 250TR. They included race numbers for a Targa Florio car, but they did not include the Italian licence plate, or the hand-lettered 'Prova' on the rear end. The hand lettering is what is proving VERY difficult.:CRY: I'm about half done with some decals for a bunch of 427 Cobra racers. I'm stuck on a few things like the Ring Free sticker for Dick Smiths Daytona car, the lettering for the Space Services 66 Sebring Cobra, and the side graphics on Pete Consiglios black/gold stripe car. I finally nailed everything I need for Scuderia Bears '66 Sebring car and a few others. I have a bunch of 427 bodies all painted and waiting for decals. Too many projects - not enough time.:CRY: Steve |
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